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 * Style
 * Menswear

November 30, 2021


YES, PLEATED PANTS ARE REALLY BACK—AND THEY’RE MORE STYLISH THAN EVER


THE MENSWEAR WORLD HAS LEARNED TO LOVE THE ONCE-MALIGNED TROUSERS ALL OVER
AGAIN.

By Eric Twardzik

ERIC TWARDZIK

ERIC TWARDZIK'S MOST RECENT STORIES

 * Yes, Pleated Pants Are Really Back—and They’re More Stylish Than Ever
 * J. Press and Todd Snyder’s New Collaboration Give Ivy Style a Modern Jolt
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Scott Fraser Collection

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For over a decade, the menswear community treated pleats like a social scourge,
whose temptation had to be resisted with a single, familiar phrase: “Just say
no.” But in the last year, the once-loathed feature has begun to crop up
everywhere from the trousers of workwear-style suits from Drake’s to J. Crew
cords to stretch cotton pants at Todd Snyder.




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   Late 1800s



In a cyclical moment, Ralph Lauren—whose baggy pleated pants were once
considered to be helplessly uncool—has revived its double-pleat chino in a
distinctly ’90s fit. And in the surest sign yet that the pleat has beat its bad
rap, Noah has introduced what would have been a punchline just a few seasons
ago: pleated jeans.







So, how did we go from flat-front-or-bust to re-embracing pleats in such a short
time? In search of an answer, we spoke to Sid Mashburn, himself a recent
convert.



“Back then, pleated pants were pretty prevalent, and most of what was worn I
would consider ‘your father’s plated pants’—big and billowy,” he says of what
inspired the backlash in the first place. “In the decade since, plain-front
pants have become the norm, so now it almost feels punk rock to wear pleats.”



Sid Mashburn wearing his pleated sport trousers ($295).  Sid Mashburn



True to form, Sid has brought back pleats his way: the pleated sport trousers
introduced by his brand are marked by a single, forward-facing pleat that’s
notably shallow at just 3/8ths of an inch and drops straight from the waistband,
minimizing fabric. They also feature button side-tabs rather than belt loops and
taper from the knee down.

“The hope was to give the pleat an understated elegance, and give the pants a
slim look overall,” Mashburn says.

While Mashburn can be seen sporting his pleated trousers with a shirt and tie,
he believes they play well with more casual outfits, too. In particular, he
points to the wardrobe of professional golfer Keith Mitchell, who wore
Mashburn’s pleated trousers with polo shirts while on the PGA Tour earlier this
year.

Scott Fraser Simpson, the London-based designer behind the Scott Fraser
Collection, is another proponent of casually worn pleated pants, albeit in a
more vintage cut. His label’s made-to-order classic wide-leg trousers, which
draw inspiration from 1940s Hollywood and are available in more than 35 fabrics,
are often styled with polos and knits.







“The sharpness of the pleats paired with something more casual can create a
great contrast and also add versatility to your look,” Simpson says. “Let’s not
forget, pleats are there to give volume and extra room to the cut of the trouser
leg, so naturally it can lend itself to be a little more relaxed.”



Drake’s pleated corduroys ($495) and a variety of pleated trousers from Scott
Fraser Collection (£280).  Drake's, Scott Fraser Collection



Drake’s takes a similarly casual approach to the detail, but via a
workwear-inspired chino with a single forward pleat. “While I see the Games
chino as being a comfortable style that lends itself to being worn in a casual
way, it is equally adept when worn with a shirt and tie and smarter shoes,” says
Drake’s creative director Michael Hill. “By having the option of a single pleat,
we’ve created a silhouette that is adaptable, comfortable and, I feel,
particularly Drake’s in the way that it’s presented.”

Paolo Martorano, the founder of the eponymous bespoke tailoring firm in New York
City, is a staunch defender of the traditional double-pleat, which he values for
reasons practical and visual.

“When wearing a fuller, higher-waisted trouser, pleats allow a man to sit more
comfortably, without the trouser pulling; something that a flat-front trouser
just can’t achieve,” he tells Robb Report. “In purely aesthetic terms, and
assuming of course that the trouser has been cut competently, pleats create a
vertical line that will make the man wearing them look tall and trimmer. The
fabric will move and drape and provide a longer wear life—not at all a bad
thing.”

Martorano acknowledges that the feature fell out of favor, which he ascribes to
poorly designed pleats that pulled open either because the pants were not cut
wide enough or did not have a sufficiently high rise. “That is a very bad thing
because it makes even a slender guy look fat; exactly what proper pleats help to
avoid,” he says.



Sharply tailored forward pleats from Paolo Martorano.  Paolo Martorano



He also expresses a bias for the forward pleat, which opens towards the trouser
fly rather than the pocket, as is the case with the more commonly observed
reverse pleat. “The forward is generally something you only find in bespoke
tailoring—and some better ready-to-wear such as Ralph Lauren. It creates a
clean, flattering line and frankly distinguishes the custom trouser from the
commercially ready-made.”







For all his pleat advocacy, Martorano realizes that not every guy might be ready
to take the plunge. However, he does have some words of encouragement for
staunch flat-fronters.

“Even if you elect to maintain a non-pleated trouser, by all means, make the
rise higher and the front fuller, even if it means adding a dart. Maybe that’s
the gateway drug to pleats,” he says.


RELATED STORIES

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 * How Dubai Watch Week Is Changing the Watch Trade Show Game
 * Parmigiani’s One-of-a-Kind New Pocket Watch Is Powered by a Movement From the
   Late 1800s


READ MORE ON:

 * Menswear
 * NoVid
 * Robb Recommends
 * Tailored Clothing

Like this article? Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered
straight to your inbox. sign up



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A BRIEF HISTORY OF VIRGIL ABLOH’S INDELIBLE IMPACT ON FASHION, CULTURE AND
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