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ITALY DIVIDED OVER NEW PINEAPPLE PIZZA

Julia Buckley, CNN
5 minute read
Updated 6:46 AM EST, Wed January 3, 2024
Link Copied!
Gino Sorbillo has created uproar in Italy with his pineapple pizza.
Gino Sorbillo

Editor’s Note: Sign up for Unlocking the World, CNN Travel’s weekly newsletter.
Get the latest news in aviation, food and drink, where to stay and other travel
developments.

CNN  — 

Anyone who’s set foot in Italy knows there are unwritten rules that one must
abide by – and the most important of all revolve around food. Cappuccino after
11 a.m.? Only for tourists. Spaghetti bolognese? A horrifying thought. Pineapple
on your pizza? Heresy – at least, it was until now.

But 2024 might just be the year that pineapple pizza cracks Italy, thanks to
Gino Sorbillo, the renowned Naples pizzaiolo (pizza maestro) who has added the
dreaded “ananas” to his menu in Via dei Tribunali, the best known pizza street
in the world capital of pizza.

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Sorbillo’s creation, called “Margherita con Ananas” costs 7 euros ($7.70). But
this isn’t your regular Hawaiian: it is a pizza bianca, denuded of its tomato
layer, sprinkled with no fewer than three types of cheese, with the pineapple
cooked twice for a caramelized feel.

Sorbillo, a third-generation pizzaiolo, told CNN that he created it to “combat
food prejudice.”

“Sadly people follow the crowd and condition themselves according to other
people’s views, or what they hear,” he said.

The 2,000-year history of Italy's favorite dish

“I’ve noticed in the last few years that lots of people were condemning
ingredients or ways of preparing food purely because in the past most people
didn’t know them, so I wanted to put these disputed ingredients – that are
treated like they’re poison – onto a Neapolitan pizza, making them tasty.”

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Doing it in his headquarters in the historic center of Naples with its 3,000
years of history – Sorbillo has 21 outlets around the world including in Miami,
Tokyo and Ibiza – was also making an important point, he said.

The pineapple is prebaked in the oven and then cooled. Then he adds smoked
provola (a local cow milk cheese from Campania), extra virgin olive oil, and
fresh basil, before popping the pizza in his woodfired oven.

As it comes out of the oven, he scatters “micro shavings” of two types of smoked
cacioricotta cheese around the crust: one from Sardinian goats, and another from
buffalos in the nearby Cilento area.

“It makes it really tasty,” he said.

What pizza from a vending machine really tastes like


THE UPROAR COMMENCES

Tasty or not, pineapple on pizza is anathema to most Italians, and his pizza –
which he launched on social media this week – hasn’t gone down well with many.
It has, Sorbillo said, started “uproar” with insults on social media, and his
pizza even being discussed on national TV.

But he says that those who’ve been curious enough to try it have been favorable.

“Before I launched it on social media, I put it on the menu without saying
anything for a couple of weeks, and lots of people ordered it, even
Neapolitans,” he said.

“But Italy is split in half about it. And not just Italy. There’s a load of
arguments that have opened up about it. I think people in general are not
curious. They are mistrustful of anything different.”

The historic center of Naples has over 3,000 years of history -- much of it
pizza-dominated.
Gino Sorbillo

Barbara Politi, a food journalist who rushed straight to Naples to try it, was
positive.

“It’s good, fresh, I’m in favor of it,” she said. “Did you know that pineapple
has been part of Europe’s food culture since Christopher Columbus tasted it in
Guadeloupe in 1493 and brought it back?

“When Sorbillo launched it, I was curious and looked into how long pineapple had
been used in Europe, and I found that it has been part of European [food]
culture for a long time. So in reality we’re talking about a question of
mentality and of taste habits.

“I liked it, it’s a bit like sushi – at the start you might not love it but then
it becomes a fixation.”

Italians judge Spanish pizzeria as the best in Europe -- but there's a catch

For Sorbillo, pineapple on pizza is no different to the more adventurous
toppings pizzaioli have been working with in recent years.

“In the last few years people have been using ingredients that five, six years
ago were never used. Now we use speck from Alto Adige, mortadella which wasn’t
used 10 years ago, chopped pistachios, powdered olives, mozzarella foam, even
jams. Why shouldn’t we rediscover pineapple? Pizza has been taking on a new life
for the past five or six years.”

He said he thought his pizzaiolo ancestors “would be perplexed” by his pineapple
offering, but added, “Things should be tasted first, and then you express your
view. In the past, not even ham or arugula went on pizzas, now they’re normal.”

Sorbillo has since created a ketchup pizza to goad his critics even more.
Gino Sorbillo

However, one thing he draws the line at is starting with a tomato base.

“That’s another fruit – with two fruits, which both have acidity it wouldn’t be
a good product,” he said. “Instead, I put three smoked cheeses on, and it
changes the pizza, becomes a different taste.”

He said that the Hawaiian’s history, using tomato, meant that “people condemn it
without trying to work on it, as I did.”

“Obviously there are polemics from people who say you shouldn’t use it. But why
are you offended? Nobody is forcing you to buy it.

“Pairings are important in food. If you pair ingredients well, the result is
good. People who are gastronomically curious are eating it, which means we did
well.”

In fact, Sorbillo has already used the criticism to create another controversial
pizza.

“When the pineapple pizza came out, someone wrote, ‘Now see if you can do a
ketchup one, so I did it,” he said. “And another row started.”

It was no ordinary ketchup, though; instead, he used homemade sauce from red and
yellow Italian datterino tomatoes, on a white base with smoked provola. He then
filmed himself eating it triumphantly, surrounded by bottles of homemade
ketchup, pronouncing it “good.”

“All you need to change is one ingredient, or one preparatory step, and you
create a whole new thing,” he said.

“I’m sure that soon pineapple pizza will appear on the menus of other pizzerias
in Naples – and not only in Naples.”


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relevant based on your possible interests by this and other entities.

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USE PROFILES TO SELECT PERSONALISED CONTENT 7 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Use profiles to select personalised content

Content presented to you on this service can be based on your content
personalisation profiles, which can reflect your activity on this or other
services (for instance, the forms you submit, content you look at), possible
interests and personal aspects, such as by adapting the order in which content
is shown to you, so that it is even easier for you to find (non-advertising)
content that matches your interests.

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CREATE PROFILES TO PERSONALISE CONTENT 11 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Create profiles to personalise content

Information about your activity on this service (for instance, forms you submit,
non-advertising content you look at) can be stored and combined with other
information about you (such as your previous activity on this service or other
websites or apps) or similar users. This is then used to build or improve a
profile about you (which might for example include possible interests and
personal aspects). Your profile can be used (also later) to present content that
appears more relevant based on your possible interests, such as by adapting the
order in which content is shown to you, so that it is even easier for you to
find content that matches your interests.

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MEASURE ADVERTISING PERFORMANCE 32 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Measure advertising performance

Information regarding which advertising is presented to you and how you interact
with it can be used to determine how well an advert has worked for you or other
users and whether the goals of the advertising were reached. For instance,
whether you saw an ad, whether you clicked on it, whether it led you to buy a
product or visit a website, etc. This is very helpful to understand the
relevance of advertising campaigns.

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MEASURE CONTENT PERFORMANCE 13 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Measure content performance

Information regarding which content is presented to you and how you interact
with it can be used to determine whether the (non-advertising) content e.g.
reached its intended audience and matched your interests. For instance, whether
you read an article, watch a video, listen to a podcast or look at a product
description, how long you spent on this service and the web pages you visit etc.
This is very helpful to understand the relevance of (non-advertising) content
that is shown to you.

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UNDERSTAND AUDIENCES THROUGH STATISTICS OR COMBINATIONS OF DATA FROM DIFFERENT
SOURCES 20 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Understand audiences through statistics or combinations of data from different
sources

Reports can be generated based on the combination of data sets (like user
profiles, statistics, market research, analytics data) regarding your
interactions and those of other users with advertising or (non-advertising)
content to identify common characteristics (for instance, to determine which
target audiences are more receptive to an ad campaign or to certain contents).

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DEVELOP AND IMPROVE SERVICES 30 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Develop and improve services

Information about your activity on this service, such as your interaction with
ads or content, can be very helpful to improve products and services and to
build new products and services based on user interactions, the type of
audience, etc. This specific purpose does not include the development or
improvement of user profiles and identifiers.

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ENSURE SECURITY, PREVENT AND DETECT FRAUD, AND FIX ERRORS 40 PARTNERS CAN USE
THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Your data can be used to monitor for and prevent unusual and possibly fraudulent
activity (for example, regarding advertising, ad clicks by bots), and ensure
systems and processes work properly and securely. It can also be used to correct
any problems you, the publisher or the advertiser may encounter in the delivery
of content and ads and in your interaction with them.

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DELIVER AND PRESENT ADVERTISING AND CONTENT 32 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Certain information (like an IP address or device capabilities) is used to
ensure the technical compatibility of the content or advertising, and to
facilitate the transmission of the content or ad to your device.

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MATCH AND COMBINE DATA FROM OTHER DATA SOURCES 27 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Information about your activity on this service may be matched and combined with
other information relating to you and originating from various sources (for
instance your activity on a separate online service, your use of a loyalty card
in-store, or your answers to a survey), in support of the purposes explained in
this notice.

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LINK DIFFERENT DEVICES 26 PARTNERS CAN USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

In support of the purposes explained in this notice, your device might be
considered as likely linked to other devices that belong to you or your
household (for instance because you are logged in to the same service on both
your phone and your computer, or because you may use the same Internet
connection on both devices).

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IDENTIFY DEVICES BASED ON INFORMATION TRANSMITTED AUTOMATICALLY 30 PARTNERS CAN
USE THIS PURPOSE

Always Active

Your device might be distinguished from other devices based on information it
automatically sends when accessing the Internet (for instance, the IP address of
your Internet connection or the type of browser you are using) in support of the
purposes exposed in this notice.

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STRICTLY NECESSARY COOKIES

Always Active

These cookies are necessary for the website to function and cannot be switched
off in our systems. You can set your browser to block or alert you about these
cookies, but some parts of the site will not work.

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