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Opinion|What if ‘Food Noise’ Is Just … Hunger?

https://www.nytimes.com/2023/12/29/opinion/food-noise-hunger-diet.html
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Guest Essay


WHAT IF ‘FOOD NOISE’ IS JUST … HUNGER?

Dec. 29, 2023

Credit...Aline Smithson

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By Kate Manne

Dr. Manne is an associate professor of philosophy at Cornell and the author of a
forthcoming book on fatphobia.

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Before 2022, there was barely a whisper about it. Now the concept of “food
noise” is ubiquitous on social media; a quick TikTok search, for instance, finds
that videos related to “food noise explained” attracted 1.8 billion views as of
this summer. Coined to name the experience of thinking about food, longing for
food, planning our next meal and so on, “food noise” is a slick rebrand of some
of the most basic human drives: hunger, appetite, craving. But now these are
being framed as bugs, rather than features. We should resist this reframing.

References to “food noise” invariably appear in connection with the new,
much-hyped class of drugs that often induce weight loss, such as Ozempic and
Wegovy. To be critical of the concept of food noise isn’t to doubt that some
people have come to experience their former relationship with hunger this way
while taking these drugs, with their powerful appetite-suppressive effects. But
to call something noise is to go beyond describing it: It’s to invoke the
normative claim that simply loving food, letting food occupy our thoughts and
responding to our hunger is suspect. It isn’t.

It’s one thing to argue that the end of weight loss justifies the means of
appetite suppression for some patients (alongside, of course, these drugs’
important role in treating type 2 diabetes), though there’s room to disagree
with even that; as a critic of fatphobia and the relentless pressure to shrink
yourself, I would stress the science showing that weight loss is not the magic
bullet it’s made out to be. But regardless of how you come down on this issue,
making the implicit argument — through the term “food noise” — that appetite
itself is a problem to be solved should be a bridge too far for all of us.

The idea that we should not be ignoring our hunger cues is familiar from
critiques of diet culture; the idea that we should not be silencing our hunger
either is, to my mind, equally compelling. As someone with a long history of
trying to tamp down my hunger with appetite suppressants — from over-the-counter
“supplements” to prescription Adderall — what ultimately got to me was not just
the side effects: It was the way trying to override my hunger was an exercise in
self-alienation. When we are hungry, our bodies tell us to eat, almost
literally, issuing cries and calls and pleas that constitute bodily imperatives.
We silence or ignore that inner voice of need at the expense of accepting our
animal nature — and with it, our humanness.



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The pleasure we take from food is an important human good. Having recently
enjoyed a food-centric holiday season, we should look back on its comforts and
delights — the crisp, glistening latkes, the marzipan-studded stollen, the
jam-bellied butter cookies — with fondness and relish, not guilt, shame, or
self-hatred. Food connects us to ourselves, and with each other, and there are
real harms in teaching people to reframe the pleasure they take from such fare
as a problem to be treated with medication. Given that 81 percent of the people
taking Wegovy in the United States last year were female, according to data from
its manufacturer, Novo Nordisk, we can see this trend as part of a perpetual
devaluing of female pleasure and the shaming of women’s visceral appetites. A
tweet from the famed — and famously sensuous — English food writer Nigella
Lawson earlier this year lamented that she “couldn’t bear to live without the
food noise.” One commenter responded in agreement: “I believe it is called ‘food
music.’”



You don’t have to be a professional foodie to experience food music — or to rue
its silence. A researcher whose work contributed to the development of what are
called GLP-1 receptor agonists, like Ozempic, believes that the loss of food joy
while on these drugs is not only a genuine loss but also a major reason patients
tend to stop taking them. “What happens is that you lose your appetite and also
the pleasure of eating,” and “there’s a price to be paid when you do that,” said
Jens Juul Holst, a professor of Biomedical Sciences at the University of
Copenhagen. For some people, “once you’ve been on this for a year or two,” he
said, “life is so miserably boring that you can’t stand it any longer and you
have to go back to your old life.” Or as a patient, Aishah Simone Smith, put it:
“My life needs more pleasures, not fewer. Eating adds drama, fun, energy, to my
otherwise listless and dysthymic experience. When I lost my longing for food, my
life lost meaning.”



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