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1. Home
2. Gardening
3. Growing Guides

BLUEBERRIES

Caption

Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow.

Photo Credit
Pixabay
Botanical Name
Vaccinium
Plant Type
Fruit
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Acidic
Bloom Time
Spring
Summer
Flower Color
White
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
No content available.
Subhead

PLANTING, GROWING, PRUNING, AND HARVESTING BLUEBERRIES

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Plump, juicy blueberries aren’t just delicious. They’re high in nutrients,
antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins. Fortunately, for very little effort,
blueberries are easy to grow—if you have the right soil conditions. See our
Blueberry Growing Guide to learn how to how to plant, care for, prune, and
harvest your blueberry bushes.

Did you know that the modern blueberry is a 20th-century invention? Before the
1900s, the only way to enjoy these North American natives was to find them in
the wild. Then, scientists started to unlock the secrets of cultivating
blueberries—and we’re glad they did!

* A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes aren’t just a great
fruiting plant but also an attractive addition to your overall landscape,
offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy-white, bell-shaped spring flowers.
* Plus, blueberries are one of nature’s superfoods, crammed with essential
nutrients, minerals and health-boosting polyphenols.

Read more about why you should grow blueberries in your home garden (as if you
needed an excuse).

TYPES OF BLUEBERRIES

There are four types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, hybrid half-high, and
rabbiteye.

The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has
focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold
hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. (Read more about blueberry
varieties below.)

Planting

WHEN TO PLANT BLUEBERRY BUSHES

* Blueberries can be planted in spring or also in late fall in all but coldest
regions. In Zones 5 and below, it’s best to wait until early to mid-spring
to plant.
* If available, 1- to 3-year-old plants are a good choice. These can be bought
in containers or bare-root. In either case, be sure to buy from a reputable
nursery or website.

CHOOSING AND PREPARING A PLANTING SITE

* Select a sunny, sheltered spot. While blueberries are tolerant of shade,
better crops are obtained in the sun. At the same time, they should not be
exposed to harsh, drying winds.
* Don’t plant blueberries too close to trees, as the trees will not only block
out sunlight, but will also suck up any moisture in the soil.
* If planting multiple bushes, it’s best to plant them in a patch, rather than
scattered throughout your garden. This will bolster berry production
and quality.
* The blueberry is a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, it requires a soil that
holds moisture, but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet. Don’t plant
blueberries in sites that have heavy, clayey soils that stay wet.
* Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be
between 4.0 and 5.0; soil that isn’t acidic enough will stunt growth. Soil
can be acidified by mixing a small amount of granulated sulfur into the soil
several months before planting. Peat moss, as well as pine bark or needles,
are also good additions that will help acidify your soil.
* Mix organic matter into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes. (See
more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)

HOW TO PLANT BLUEBERRY BUSHES

* Tip: Be careful not to plant them too deeply. The rootball should be just
below the surface (one-quarter to one-half inch).
* Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (or about twice as wide and
twice as deep as the roots of the plant).
* Space bushes 4–5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between
rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and one part oak leaf mold,
peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the
bottom of the hole.
* Set the bush in the hole with the rootball just below the surface and its
roots spread out. Pack the hole tightly with soil.
* Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at the time of
planting. Apply ½ ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6
to 12 inches from the crown.

CAN YOU GROW BLUEBERRIES IN A CONTAINER?

Yes! In fact, blueberries grown in containers are easier to protect from birds
and other critters, more disease resistant, easy to harvest, and easy to move if
needed. Plus, if you live in an area without acidic soil, growing blueberries in
containers allows you to tailor the soil pH specifically for them.

Here’s how to do it:

* Use a large container with drainage holes.
* Use a potting mix designed for acid-loving plants such as azaleas or
rhododendrons, or mix sandy soil with peat moss and compost.
* Plant the bush in the container and water well.
* Add mulch on top of the soil to keep in moisture.
* Place the pot in a sunny spot.
* Keep soil moist.
* In northern regions, overwinter the blueberry container in a protected area
or cover the container with straw or wrap it in burlap.

Varieties for Containers

* ‘Top Hat’: Bred by the University of Michigan for small spaces
and containers.
* ‘Pink Lemonade’: Pink blueberries contain genetics from rabbiteye blueberries
(a standard in the hot South). These pink berries can be planted in nearly
every climate.
* ‘Pink Champagne’: Another pink variety full of antioxidants and sweeter than
blue blueberries.

‘Pink Lemonade’ blueberries
Growing

HOW TO CARE FOR BLUEBERRY BUSHES

* Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply
a 2- to 4-inch layer of woodchips, saw dust, or pine needles around the bush
after planting, but leave a gap around the trunk of the bush to allow for
proper air flow. Read more about mulching.
* Blueberries need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
* Warning: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s
recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time by draping bird
netting over your plants.
* One year after planting, apply 1 ounce of 10-10-10 fertilizer per bush in the
spring at blooming time, and increase the rate by 1 ounce each year
thereafter to a maximum of 8 ounces for mature bushes.
* Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first year or two after
planting. This lets the plant use its energy to get well established in its
new home instead.
* Pinch back any blossoms developing on newly set plants to allow the energy to
go to growth.

HOW TO PRUNE BLUEBERRY BUSHES

* For the first 4 years or so after planting, there is no need to prune
blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the
new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
* Prune plants in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
* Cut out dead, broken, short, weak, and spindly shoots.
* On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than
6 years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also
remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as
spindly twigs.
* Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants
will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a
blueberry patch every two years (or a different third of a patch every
three years).

VIDEO: HOW TO GROW AND PRUNE BLUEBERRY BUSHES

Recommended Varieties

Blueberries are partially self-fertile, so you will harvest more and larger
berries by planting two or more varieties together. Planting more than one
variety can also extend the harvest season.

Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum): A six-foot shrub hardy from Zone 4 to Zone 7.

* For withstanding cold winters, choose ‘Bluecrop’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Herbert’,
‘Jersey’, or ‘Meader’.
* For big berries, choose ‘Berkeley’, ‘Bluecrop’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Coville’,
‘Darrow’, or ‘Herbert’.
* For flavor, usually the main reason for growing your own fruit, choose
‘Blueray’, ‘Darrow’, ‘Herbert’, ‘Ivanhoe’, ‘Pioneer’, ‘Stanley’,
or ‘Wareham’.
* For something different, try ‘Pink Lemonade’, which
produces bright pink blueberries!

Lowbush (Vaccinium angustifolium): For the coldest climates, lowbush varieties
are your best bet, hardy from Zone 3 to Zone 7.

* These are the blueberries you find in cans on supermarket shelves. When
fresh, the fruits are sweet and covered with a waxy bloom so thick that the
berries appear sky blue or gray.
* The creeping plants, a foot or so high, are spread by underground stems, or
rhizomes. They blanket the rocky upland soils of the Northeast and adjacent
portions of Canada. Lowbush blueberries make a nice ornamental fruiting
ground cover.
* Plants sold by nurseries are usually seedlings or unnamed wild plants, rather
than named varieties.

Half-High: Breeders have combined qualities of highbush and lowbush blueberries
into hybrids known as half-high blueberries.

* University of Minnesota introductions include ‘Northcountry’, a variety that
grows 18 to 24 inches high and has excellent, mild-flavored, slightly
aromatic sky-blue fruits; and ‘Northblue’, which grows 20 to 30 inches high
and produces an abundance of dark-blue, nickel-size, somewhat tart
fruits-just right for pies.
* ‘Northland’ is a half-high that grows 3 to 4 feet tall. From Michigan, it has
relatively bland, average-quality fruit.

Blueberries for Southern Gardens (Zones 7–9):

* Rabbiteye (Vaccinium virgatum): Grown in the southeastern United States,
rabbiteye varieties are extremely adaptable, productive, and pest-tolerant.
They do, however, have a high degree of self-incompatibility and require two
or more varieties be planted together to ensure pollination. Recommended
varieties include ‘Powderblue’, ‘Woodard’, ‘Brightwell’.
* Southern Highbush (hybrids of V. virgatum, V. corymbosum, or V. darrowii):
Southern highbush varieties tend to be pickier and harder to grow than
rabbiteyes, but there are a few high-quality varieties that do well. Among
these are ‘Emerald’, ‘Windsor’, and ‘Springhigh’.
* Read more about blueberries for southern gardens from the University of
Florida: Blueberry Gardener’s Guide

Harvesting

HOW TO HARVEST BLUEBERRIES

* Blueberries are typically ready for picking between June and August.
* Don’t rush to pick the berries as soon as they turn blue. Wait a couple days.
When they are ready, they should fall off right into your hand.
* If you plant 2-year-old blueberry bushes, they should start to bear within a
year or two. (Pick off any flowers that form the first year or two after
planting, to allow the bush to become established.) Be aware that full
production is only reached after about 6 years (depending on variety).

HOW TO STORE BLUEBERRIES

* Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to freeze. Learn how to properly
freeze blueberries so you can have them all winter long.

Wit and Wisdom
* In Ireland, baskets of blueberries are still offered to a sweetheart in
commemoration of the original fertility festival of Lammas Day, celebrated on
August 1.
* Blueberries are one of the few naturally blue foods on earth.
* For centuries, Native Americans gathered “star berries” (the blossom end of
each berry forms the shape of a perfect five-pointed star) from forests and
fields and ate them fresh or dried them for later use.
* Dried blueberries were added to stews, soups and meats.
* Dried berries were also crushed into a powder and rubbed into meat
for flavor.
* Blueberry juice was used to cure coughs.
* Blueberry juice was also used as a purple dye for cloth and baskets.
* A tea made from the leaves of the blueberry plant was believed to be good
for the blood.
* Tired of blueberries? Try growing another berry in your garden, such as
strawberries, raspberries, or blackberries!

Pests/Diseases
* Birds
* Blueberry Maggot
* Powdery Mildew

Recipes
Lemon Blueberry Muffins
Blueberry Jelly Roll
Blueberry Crumble
Blueberry Jam
Creme Fraiche-Blueberry Ice Cream
Cooking Notes

Visit our recipe archives to find delicious blueberry recipes ranging from
salads to desserts!

Fruit
Blueberries

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