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Learn About Batteries Buy The Book About Us Contact Us




BU-808A: HOW TO AWAKEN A SLEEPING LI-ION

Li-ion batteries contain a protection circuit that shields the battery against
abuse. This important safeguard also turns the battery off and makes it unusable
if over-discharged. Slipping into sleep mode can happen when storing a Li-ion
pack in a discharged state for any length of time as self-discharge would
gradually deplete the remaining charge. Depending on the manufacturer, the
protection circuit of a Li-ion cuts off between 2.2 and 2.9V/cell(See BU-802b:
Elevated Self-discharge)

Some battery chargers and analyzers (including Cadex), feature a wake-up feature
or “boost” to reactivate and recharge batteries that have fallen asleep. Without
this provision, a charger renders these batteries unserviceable and the packs
would be discarded. Boost applies a small charge current to activate the
protection circuit and if a correct cell voltage can be reached, the charger
starts a normal charge. Figure 1 illustrates the “boost” function graphically.

Figure 1: Sleep mode of a lithium-ion battery

Some over-discharged batteries can be “boosted” to life again. Discard the pack
if the voltage does not rise to a normal level within a minute while on boost.

Do not boost lithium-based batteries back to life that have dwelled below
1.5V/cell for a week or longer. Copper shunts may have formed inside the cells
that can lead to a partial or total electrical short. When recharging, such a
cell might become unstable, causing excessive heat or show other anomalies. The
Cadex “boost” function halts the charge if the voltage does not rise normally.

When boosting a battery, assure correct polarity. Advanced chargers and battery
analyzers will not service a battery if placed in reverse polarity. A sleeping
Li-ion does not reveal the voltage, and boosting must be done with awareness.
Li-ion is more delicate than other systems and a voltage applied in reverse can
cause permanent damage.

Storing lithium-ion batteries presents some uncertainty. On one end,
manufacturers recommend keeping them at a state-of-charge of 40–50 percent, and
on the other end there is the worry of losing them due to over-discharge(See
BU-702: How to Store Batteries) There is ample bandwidth between these criteria
and if in doubt, keep the battery at a higher charge in a cool place.

Cadex examined 294 mobile phones batteries that were returned under warranty.
The Cadex analyzer restored 91 percent to a capacity of 80 percent and higher;
30 percent were inactive and needed a boost, and 9 percent were non-serviceable.
All restored packs were returned to service and performed flawlessly. This study
shows the large number of mobile phone batteries that fail due to
over-discharging and can be salvaged.


Last Updated: 3-Nov-2021

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Mike
1 year ago

I tried everything to try to wake up my new 8 volt ac delco lithium battery ..do
u have any ideas? Thank you

Reply




Komsok Mahkok
1 year ago

Dem nutz drive u krazee

Reply




Raul Ortiz
1 year ago

Where can I find/buy a 5600mAh TYP Maimeite X60pro battery? I need help on this
one

Reply




GowriShanker
2 years ago

We are very much interested.

Reply





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Show Old Comments
On July 9, 2019, Chris Coulson wrote:
I have used the link below to look at replies to my question but the link only
brings up the same general page with no responses.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/low_voltage_cut_off
On July 9, 2019, Chris Coulson wrote:
My wife is disabled and I am her carer. I’m a bit upset that her small indoor
holiday scooter Li batteries won’t charge. We seem to have fallen into the trap
of none use. The voltage out put is currently zero but on reading what I can
there seem to be hope on making them ‘reawaken’. They are very expensive and of
course I’d like to ‘get them going again’. Any advice?
On July 6, 2019, Chris C wrote:
My wife is disabled and I am her carer. I'm a bit upset that her small indoor
holiday scooter Li batteries won't charge. We seem to have fallen into the trap
of none use. The voltage out put is currently zero but on reading what I can
there seem to be hope on making them 'reawaken'. They are very expensive and of
course I'd like to 'get them going again'. Any advice?
On May 31, 2019, Robert Lee wrote:
I would like to know if I can fully charge my electric board scooter that I have
in Spain that I use for 2 or 3 months a year before leaving it unused for 9
months or is it better to fully charge the battery a 36V 6Ah Li then disconnect
it from the scooter until the next time I use it? Much appreciate any useful
replies, thank you?
On February 7, 2019, Jack Fletcher wrote:
I have a Chinese made leaf blower. 84 volt Li ion battery pack. Is there any way
of estimating the shut off voltage? The charger fails to recognize them. I have
2 battery packs and both are asleep. One at 0 volts.
On January 27, 2019, Phub dema wrote:
After knowing that my battery doesn't last long I was horrified and without
consulting experts or searching in internet I have kept my laptop
battery(li-ion) in freezer for 4 hours. Later my friend told me that li-ion
battery should not keep in freezer. After hearing this I took out my battery and
now I am terrified as well as horrified. Please suggest what should i do now
On November 9, 2018, victor cadillac wrote:
i have a Droid Turbo i changed the USB port and still wont charge my battery new
what can i do ???
On October 30, 2018, Chris wrote:
To SANDY above, try switch?? OR use a single battery to operate the led OUT of
the torch. Will be one or the other! MORE likely is the switch, but easy repair
IF you can take it apart.
On October 15, 2018, Nishanth wrote:
Can awake LI-ION battery in smartphones and how
On September 20, 2018, halflife2000 wrote:
Hello , i do have troubles with one of my laptop batteries, Acer 4820tg 11.1 V
battery type which i dont use it anymore, but i forgot to charge it for a bout 2
months and now the battery dont last for neither 1 sec with the laptop turned
on. I checked the voltages with hw monitor and is dropping by day ..now after a
week since monitoring is ~6,123 V, with the multimiter shows 0,3 v bettween the
first and the last pin( as shown + /-) . I knew the battery already had a 43%
wear (HWmonitor) and now shows (HWmonitor) 15% wear and 31 % charge but ii dont
charge and dont last turned on for 1 sec. I still keep it with the charger
plugged in the laptop for a few days but no changes just voltage dropping
(hwmonitor) And ...i do have another laptop dell n5110 that also have a 11.1 v
battery but when fully charging on battery report /hw monitor showing 140%
charge and 29% wear (i bought this chinese battery 2 months ago, the numbers
were normal for a time... Quite a few anomalies but will i be able to solve any
with your help , Thanks
On September 7, 2018, Sandy wrote:
Hi, I need some help regarding a torch. My friend said it got bad after his
charger shorted. He tried charging with a different one but the torch gave a
flash and stopped. With a different charger, I tried charging. After some time,
I tried putting the torch on with the charger on, the torch is lighting up,
however when I remove the charger, the torch does not light. There are two 3.7V
lithium ion batteries. Have the batteries gone bad? Please help.
On August 21, 2018, Leny wrote:
Does anyone know the resistance to be put between the minus contact and the
central contact of the power cordless tools of different makers? I want to use
power tools with external batteries, but the three contact tools are designed
not to work without input to the central contact. Heard about 1500 ohm for
Bosch, 8250 ohm for Worx/Rockwell/JCB/Erbauer/Ozito/Titan etc. but this isn't
verifyed.
On August 8, 2018, Alin Stefan Hiemesch wrote:
Thank you very much , i charged every row of cells at 7.2 v 7.2/5 =36 v , it is
at 36v +- but id , or com is at 34.8 , with the charger plugged in and the
battery attached i found that there is a pin on the battery witch grounded ,
connecting only - (black lid )from the multimeter has an intressting effect ,
the voltage from com (id ) gets higher , so its just 1 pin from the battery to
get grounded and sometimes the led from the charger goes green when touching
that pin repeatedly as if it would charge, akward anyway i am gonna keep messing
with it untill i get it sorted
On August 8, 2018, Philip wrote:
Best to do with these kind of battery / accupack is: connect to charger and plug
and unplug the charger several times. This can awake your battery. The battery
receives a bit of peak current pulse and can wake up with after receiving some
of these peaks. But reading your problem description, I think your pack is
broken, because one of the cells is going out of line with the rest of the
cells. Voltage of that cell, or even cells, can be too low/ too high or cell is
(almost) dead. Often this happens with heavy discharge use. For example too much
firewood cutting without any resting for many minutes. Cells can become hot and
SDI protection kicks in and disconnects + pole of the battery permanente.
Battery packs hate it to go low in voltage. Battery pack hate HEAVY continues
use too, even if the machine is build and designed for it. :( I think you need
most likely a new battery-pack for your chainsaw. Good luck!
On August 6, 2018, Alin Stefan Hiemesch wrote:
Hello , i have a 36v chainsaw battery , i didnt charge it for a very long time ,
after deciding to charge it , the charger had 0v output , after some soldering ,
i got 40v feom the charger , the battery li-ion , had rised the voltage from
33.0v to 34.4 in 2 days , is it possible that the charger would allow full
charge after it gets charged enaugh ? Before the diode is 35.1v ,before the
regulators i get 40v , it charging but very slow ,would get it self back to life
even in this very slow charge? Or it doesnt get enaugh juice from the charger to
keep it at the 36-37v range ? Thank you in advance
On June 9, 2018, Dean Fletcher wrote:
I just fixed an 18V Eionhell battery...it was dead and plugging into the charger
did nothing...took the case apart and it measured the volage at about 5V across
all 5 x 18650 in series...I connect a 12V trickle charger across the 18650
terminals (+ to +, 1 to -") for about 1 minute...voltage came up to about
12V...I then plugged into the standard charger and now its charging:)
On June 7, 2018, borja wrote:
Hi @AlexA, did you have any luck finding a solution for your SeaBob? Apparently
SAFT has an exclusivity contract with SeaBob so that's defenitely a no-go. At
6500€ a pop, I am looking for another suppliers that may have compatible li-ion
cells as the VL41M format is just too rare.
On April 1, 2018, MadMonty wrote:
Cautionary Tale: I sought to wake up and recharge a LiPo battery back sole as
combo USB power supply and Jump Starter. Came with its own 9" long jumper cables
and 15V 1A charger that no longer charged it after a deep discharge. Tried
applying ~12VDC limited to about 1.5A from lab power supply, to jumper cables
which bypass protective circuitry. Took charge nicely, 10 minutes later, burst
into flames, melted nearby equipment, burning plastic released toxic fumes and
4' flames with nasty black sooty smoke. Put out with bicarb fire extinguisher.
See damage in photo "LiPo Mistake 3-18.jpg" at
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QGciGkR0g-4jExRH3sGd24RgiEHg_G62 There is a
second lesson if you ever use one of these to jumpstart a car: remove it within
30 seconds after car starts because the alternator will current will flow into
the battery without even less protection than my lab supply. Car fires may be
dramatic, but still no fun.
On February 18, 2018, Frankie wrote:
Hello, I left my HP pro book 440 G2 on hibernation for few days out of town and
came to meet it drained and won't charge. Anyone know how to revive this one?
Please I'd appreciate
On January 1, 2018, Johnathan wrote:
I just had two 18650 cells that would not charge. I am just using them for an
e-cigarette and using the vape to charge them. When measured with a good quality
volt meter one cell read 1 volt and the other read 1.2 volts. I tried giving
them a boost from other cells that were fully charged according to the
e-cigarette. This is really my only method of charging them seeing as I have not
yet bought a $30 charger for them. It did not work. I then could not find any
plugs for a nine volt battery as I heard that can work. At a last ditch attempt
I have a bench top power supply that I made from a salvaged computer power
supply. I held them against the 5 volt leads for about 10 seconds. While holding
the leads against one of the cells the leads started to get warm to the touch.
The leads are just made from wire salvaged from another dead computer power
supply with some pins soldered on to plug them into a breadboard. On the second
cell they stayed cool. I then put them back into the vape and they began
charging. I left them to charge for a couple minutes. Did not time it so I'm not
sure how long. I then pulled them out and measured them with the meter and they
measured above 2 volts. After about 20 minutes in the vape it started to show 1
bar that meant they are charging. I pulled them out and measured again with the
meter and they now read 3.2 volts each. The vape said check battery for quite
awhile but after that except after about 20 minutes the vape now works. It's
still charging but does work and this is just working off a e-cigarette plugged
into a wall wort. The batteries are a no name brand as there is nothing but a
sticker on them where as the ones that came with the vape are Samsung 25R's. The
no name batteries also have dents in the caps on the positive a negative where
they plug into the vape. The originals don't. The originals are rated at 3.7
volts. 2500mAh. The no name ones are rated at 3.7 volts. 3000mAh. Another 20
minutes and still at one bar. The vape said check battery. I unplugged for less
than a second and plugged back in. The vape works. Still charging at 1 bar
showing on the display. Another 20 min's and still only at one bar on the
display but removed the batteries and tested with meter and am now at 3.6 volts
each. Another 40 mins's and I removed the batteries and tested with a meter and
I have 3.7 volts on each battery. The display shows 2 bars. Plugged it in and
it's showing that it's charged to one bar. Still charging. 10 more mins and I
now have 2 bars. Still charging. I think the point of this is that yes boosting
worked for me. How I did it was to use a computer power supply and use the 5
volt power rail. Now I'm still not sure if I would have just left them in the
e-cigarette charging these batteries would have worked in the first place
without boosting. I have four of these 18650's period. I still would not
recommend just leaving them hooked up to a five volt constant current supply as
I have heard of them catching fire.
On November 21, 2017, Philip wrote:
Some use here really wrong words! like "high current" or "high voltage". This is
most stupid and dangerous. To boost a battery you use a healthy battery of the
same sort to "wake up" a dead cell. This process takes only seconds or perhaps
20 seconds or a few more. Very rapidly the voltage of the dead/sleeping cell
will go up. (it is like emptying a bucket of water very rapidly and you only
need a few drops to get some wetness) It takes NEVER minutes or longer. Waking
up cells should only be done by people who know what they do. Or perhaps with
fresh instructions. Because when done wrong it IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Potential
fire hazard, explosion or HOT venting of the battery cell. If you do this. It's
advisable not to use fully charged good cell to wake up a bad cell. But use a
cell with 30% load. It's even more safe to wake up more then one cell with one
not fully charged healthy cell. If you do this procedure wake up it is VERY
important that the sleeping cell and also the power-donor cell is NOT warming
up. Stop immediately the procedure and measure the voltages of both cells.
Lithium-ions can deliver massive amounts of Amps. Both cells are in danger of
damage or even fire or explosive like venting also with fire!
On November 16, 2017, Adam Bryant wrote:
I have a li-ion pack that holds 18.4 volts when not in use, drops to 12.6 volts
under load but jumps back up to 18.4 when the load is removed. each battery is
reading 3.6v off load. is there a way to diagnose the issue and fix the pack?
On November 13, 2017, Jerry wrote:
I have a Nikon EN-ELxx battery which the camera showed as unusable. Charger
seemed to charge (light flashing normally, etc) but after many days of trying,
no change. So having read this and other articles I thought I would check the
voltage and try to boost the battery to revive it. Unfortunately could not find
my multimeter leads! So, having read that the cleverer chargers start by pulsing
the battery to test its condition, I started to think maybe doing this many
times might just tip the battery over the threshold. Assuming Nikon's charger is
a clever one! I inserted and removed the battery from the standard Nikon charger
about 20 times in quick succession, each time leaving it in for about 10 secs
before removing it. Then I put it back in the camera - and guess what - the
battery was recognised as working again. I put it back on charge again to
completion, and I now have a good battery again!
On October 27, 2017, JimFLorida wrote:
To answer sanjay's question, it sounds like your older laptop battery won't hold
a charge because it is at "end of life" from frequent use which is different
from this article's topic, which is what to do with a good battery that has been
allowed to drain down in storage so low that the battery's built-in protection
circuit won't let it be charged any more, and possiby can be brought back to
life with a boost from a special charger. Search online for new or good used
batteries or a local computer repair shop.
On October 26, 2017, Stephen Pirie wrote:
I also have a Sony vaio laptop is the heat of the laptop on the rear left of the
laptop as this seams normaly hot on mine after some use , re battery - I have
had to replace the transformer as it was working on reduced power , so I suggest
you check the operation of this first . Hope this is of help to you .
On October 26, 2017, sanjay wrote:
i have a sony vaio laptop and 2010 model and the batteries don't even hold the
charge for 10 minutes. The laptop bottom portion gets very hot with or without
the battery, when i charge the batteries in the laptop they charge slowly but
drains very quickly. so do i have to buy new battery pack or is there any way to
reactivate the same battery? Pls advise, thanks. sanjay.
On October 18, 2017, Stephen Pirie wrote:
please read all the replies to "how to recharge sleeping li ion batteries "
these replies go back a few years but the principle is the same . The battery is
most likely good just dropped below the minimum charge level / voltage .
On October 18, 2017, phil wrote:
I am a business I have some stock of RC helicopters and cameras which have been
sat there for about 18 months. New - never used. I recently sold a few and the
customers said that they failed to charge. Is there anything I can do in this
case. Is there a way of recharging them or replacing the internal batteries or
will I have topdispose of them. If disposal is the only option then how can I do
this safely and where ?? Thanks
On June 12, 2017, karma ella wrote:
I have an iphone 4, the battery was dying even without use, I was going to
change the battery until i bought a charger from the pound shop, which obviously
did some boosting to the battery and now we're good but now i think i need to
buy another charger that won't over do it, can someone explain why this happened
and to what extent should I be using the charger, if its good to continue to use
it or not. thanks
On June 4, 2017, Alex Apostolou wrote:
Just following on from my earlier post, On May 24, 2017 at 7:48am, just thought
I'd let it be known that the technique worked for 6 out of the 12 cells. They
are now fully charged and seemingly restored, and without incident. Of the other
six, 5 were clearly not interested, and one, was the only one where the
temperature actually rose. The cutoff had been set to 22.5 c but this one
managed to get itself up to 28.5 on its own. So the very low temp cutoff worked
well. Now to find replacements for the other 6.
On May 31, 2017, Wayne wrote:
Something mentioned here. I've put lithium batteries in the freezer to get them
to charge again. But maybe that was devices and the thermistor / thermocouple in
the tablet etc. Can't remember if I used it successfully on batteries on their
own. But a few questions are needed. Lithium batteries used to die after a few
years (I think oxygenation) even if never used. Would this be recoverable by the
voltage method? Another question is, this short circuits bridge forming over
time in unused batteries. Does that happen in only certain battery formulations
(and which?) and is it reversible by any method? I've got a long spent li drill
battery (or charger) and I would like to restore it but don't want it blowing up
while using it or charging it, or just sitting around or being jostled doing an
imitation of an old iPhone battery. Thanks.
On May 24, 2017, AlexA wrote:
I am working on a battery pack for a SeaBob, underwater scooter type thing. The
battery pack was left on charge for an extended period of time (3 months, says
the owner) and now, irrespective of how long the charger is left on, the pack
output voltage remains at 0v The normal pack output should be 48V as the pack
contains 12 x Saft VL41M single cell batteries (41 Ah each) wired in series. The
replacement cost of the pack is around AU$10K so I am looking at way of getting
the batteries back to life, cognisant, of course, that he who gives can also
take away! Using one battery as a test, I am charging it with a 4v 1A power pack
which is powered through a temperature controller whose sensor is sitting on top
of the battery. Current battery temp is 21.5c and it hasn't moved since I put
the charger on it about an hour ago. In any case, if it gets to 24.5 it will be
switched off. The battery is very slowly coming up from 0v and is now sitting at
1.8v and slowly climbing. My intention is to try and wake the battery from its
slumber and then once the voltage is back over 3v, put it on a normal single
cell LiFeO4 charger. Mindful of the consequences of foolhardiness, but also
aware that replacement cells are not only extremely expensive, but Saft is not
being very forthcoming in selling the individual cells, and having the
temperature cutoff in the charging circuit should mitigate any runaway and in
any case, the current being supplied is so minimal, I would like to ask this
learned group their opinion as to best course of action from here? Thanks in
advance, Alex
On May 18, 2017, Eric K. wrote:
Porter Cable multi-tool 18V batteries, 2 of them, (Model PC 18BL) batteries left
in storage for over 2 years. Battery voltage, measured at the battery terminals
was 1.8V and 2.1V. Connected two 9-volt batteries in series to the + and -
terminals of the battery for 2 seconds. Both charge normally in the PCXMV1
charger afterwards. May have been a risk, but saved alot versus replacement.
On April 20, 2017, Nick Kruger wrote:
The battery is a Sony camera battery NP-FR1. 3.6V 4.4Wh. Li-ion Thank you
On April 18, 2017, Magyver wrote:
@Nick Kruger - Sorry mate, not 'enuf data. First, what is the model/type of the
batteries and the number of batteries? I assume they're ordinary L-ion cells?
What's the voltage of each one after the charge?
On April 18, 2017, Nick Kruger wrote:
I charged my Sony Camera li-ion battery with one of these new adjustable pin
universal chargers and now the camera does not recognize it, it's giving me a
message "for lithium battery only" and switches off. Can the problem be fixed?
On March 31, 2017, Magyver wrote:
@ Older than Dirt: Had another idea........ How soon do you anticipate
running/running down your blower? I had a related overheating problem with a
laptop. Until the new laptop fan came in I made do by sitting the laptop on a
makeshift platform with a plastic freezable ice replacement thingy right under
the warmest part. I also wiped the upper side occasionally with a softer frozen
gel bead thingy from the Dollar Tree. The frozen things dissipated the heat very
quickly and saved my laptop. Might you have something like that to set the
charger on to try to get it to stay cooler & stay on longer? The overtemp sensor
might very well indeed be near the battery, but an overheated charger will raise
the battery temp as well. New prognosis: A combination of overheating charger
with a over-sensitive battery temp sensor. Now I'm eager to hear the results,
lol. (BTW, I'm reading up on the Cadex C7200 battery analyzer, and I feel
tingles of lust, LMAO)
On March 31, 2017, Older than Dirt wrote:
@ magyver Thanks for the confirmation of my theory and suspicions. I surmised
that there was a heat problem with either the battery or the charger or both
that was shutting down the charge. I had not thought of the freezer/refrigerator
method of restoring charger's function. It is logical and I will try it out. I
do remember the last time I drained the battery, I put it on the charger soon
after and it would not charge. However, I waited a while and retried with
success and with enough of the cycles of charging, I got a full charge. My
thought is that the charger sensed the elevated battery temperature right after
use.
On March 31, 2017, Magyver wrote:
@ Geoffrey Mason You said you don't know how to test the battery - I read in a
related thread that the inner 2 terminals aren't used, it's the outer pair that
connect to the voltage. Have a buddy put a voltmeter on the outer 2 terminals to
read the voltage - most likely it is almost dead. Then Google this article: How
to Revive a Cell Phone Battery (with Pictures) - wikiHow It will tell you how
you can "boost" the voltage with a 9 volt battery so it will take a charge again
- good luck, and get a nerd buddy to help, lol.
On March 31, 2017, Magyver wrote:
@ Older than Dirt: I just happened to see your 5 day old post and got
interested. This thread is over 6 years old so my answer may be the only one you
get, lol... (BTW, I'm older than most of the dirt in my town too) I'm a
troubleshooter from waaaaay back, so here goes: It's most likely the charger,
not the batteries. (2 batteries act identically, 1 charger acts nuts) 2 to 1
odds... Here's where it gets wacky as I psychoanalyze your charger... A
thermistor / thermocouple may be overheating and stopping the charging - each
and every time... 1) Try putting the charger in the freezer for 5 minutes after
the first few charges; see if it will start recharging the battery again. Yes,
THIS MAY actually work. 2) If it does you just cut 60 minutes off your recharge
time. and can tell the manufacturer your KNOW they gave you a defective charger.
3) Leave me an update if you try this and tell me what happened. (I'll come back
and check) If the charger is out of warranty I'll have another idea to prolong
your device life and speed up the charge. And to "Battery University", this is a
fine informational site. I plan to 'camp out" in here again, lol. If a guy
wasn't careful he could learn a lot from you guys.
On March 25, 2017, Older than Dirt wrote:
I bought a cordless trimmer and blower with 56 v battery. The battery is
supposed to recharge in 90 minutes. The charger flashes a green LED while
charging and goes steady when charged. Trouble is the charger LED stops flashing
after 8 to 15 minutes. There are three LED indicator lights on the battery. when
fully charged, all three should light up when the indicator switch is depressed.
After 8 to 15 minutes, I might get one light. I have two batteries (new) and
both respond this way. If I remove the battery from the charger and wait 10 to
15 minutes or longer, I can return the battery to the charger for another 8 to
15 minutes of charging. After about 6 to 8 cycles of charging, the battery seems
fully charged. This seems quite odd to me. What's up?
On March 16, 2017, Bromley wrote:
Well, mea culpa. I think I spoke too soon in my previous post. Cells 4, 5, 6
were at 0.5 V for at least a couple of years. So upon charging they showed an
increase in voltage and maintained that voltage. However there were a couple of
problems. The cells could not reach 4.2 volts. #4 did not go above 3.85 V. The
other two stopped at 4.1 V. The Lion cell charger was thus unable to trigger a
stop, as it never reached 4.2. Had to put a 0.5 Ohm resistor in series to make
it trigger. The cells became moderately warm at the limit which was about 0.125
mA of charge. After triggering a stop and starting the discharge cycle, the two
better ones displayed a capacity of 0.7 Ah and 0.3 Ah - much lower than their
rating of 2.4 Ah to 2.6 Ah. Thus we conclude that indeed the batteries are
headed to the trash bin.
On March 14, 2017, Bromley wrote:
My old laptop was dead for two and a half years. I took the 3x3 cell 18650
Lithium-ion battery pack (i.e. 3P3S) opened it up and measured a respectable 3.5
V on batteries 1, 2, 3, 7, 8, 9. My Lion charger shows they can hold about 2 Ah,
which is down from probably 2.6 Ah. But still respectable. Batteries 4, 5, 6
show only 0.5 V each. I suspect the issue was with the power controller on the
pack or in the laptop, and not a self-draining cell. This is what I am doing. I
am applying a minor constant current of about 30 mA to each cell and raising it
over time to 3.1 V. Lo and behold, they actually store the charge and seem to
maintain the 3.1 volts when they reach there. Below 2.0 V, they do not seem to
maintain the voltage, probably because it takes very little charge to get to 2.0
V. The next step is to put these through the Lion charger and measure their
capacity. I expect them to be less than the other six cells, but t is possible
that they may still have decent capacity for a flashlight. This contradicts many
reports here and elsewhere that when a Lion fully discharges, it should head to
the trash bin.
On February 20, 2017, Kenny Thomas wrote:
I'm only writing with my experience - do not take as a recommendation, as may be
dangerous! I worked in an electronics store for a few years, and lost count of
the number of customer's 'dead' batteries I got working using our 2A bench power
supply. I used to set the voltage slightly higher than the total cell voltage,
leave for a min or two, then attempted to charge normally in the device. I only
had one battery this did not work for. The reason I am here at the moment is my
windows tabled with it's 3 cell battery has been in the drawer for 2 years. I
just repaired the fault that was stopping power-on, but battery was dead. I
applied my 19v charger across it's terminals (after unplugging from board) for a
few mins. It is now charging fine. It is up to 50% after 2 hours in Windows.
TLDR - if you are desperate, apply PSU straight to the battery for a min or two.
In my experience it works 95% of the time.
On February 19, 2017, Geoffrey Mason wrote:
I dropped my spare Alcatel PopD1 mobile phone battery into a stream about nine
hours ago. It was fully charged at the time. It took me about 3 minutes to fish
it out. I don't know how to test its voltage. It seems to have four terminals on
it. It won't begin charging in my phone. Can it be woken?
On February 18, 2017, Kathryn Hodgson wrote:
I have 3 nunchaku batteries . 2 are completely dead and one has a little charge
left but won't recharge. They are nunchaku vapros brand for ecig. They are my
favourite batteries for my set up and they also are getting harder to buy. They
don't have an obvious + and - otherwise I would try the slow wake up charge with
a micro USB wire. Any suggestions and if there is a charger that I can buy I'd
like advice. Don't really want the cadex item unless guaranteed to work.
On February 17, 2017, roy grantham wrote:
i have a 36v li-on electric bike i discharged to much and sent it into sleep
mode, its showing 37v from discharge terminals but my charger goes to green when
trying to charge how do i wake the battery up
On February 10, 2017, Kathryn Hodgson wrote:
I've just read that heating the battery with a hairdryer until it is nice and
hot wakes it up. There were loads of " yes this works " comments. I'll be trying
it out myself later on. I chucked out the last battery that did this. Another
suggestion was to use a USB cable. Strip the micro end down to the wires and
jump start it like a car battery. This appeared to work as well. I think we both
need some luck.
On January 31, 2017, Tony wrote:
We use 3 LIR2450 coin cells in a portable instrument. Battery manufacturer is
Power-Stream, but we buy through distribution. Some of the batteries are coming
in from the supplier completely discharged (less than 1V), while others in the
same batch are almost fully charged (~4V). Can the fully discharged batteries be
"rejuvenated", or should I be asking for replacements.
On November 30, 2016, Steven wrote:
Have been working on the problem with my laptop battery for nearly a month. I
never gave up. I performed many of the methods out there. For a little while,
running off the battery until the laptop turned off, close the lid and let it
charge overnight improved the battery status a little, but the wear percentage
had gone up to over 90 and the charge wouldn't even reach 50%. I kept performing
another method of closing the lid, unplugging the a/c adapter overnight.
Finally, after doing this again last night, this morning the laptop was still in
sleep mode instead of turned off. When I opened the lid, the battery charge
showed 78% and wear at 37%.. 2 hours later, it's still charging and it's at 92%
charge. An enormous improvement.
On November 24, 2016, petey pablo wrote:
How much damage would there be if a brand new samsung phone with 3000mah battery
was shipped at 0% battery switched off by itself i.e. the sleep protection
circuit activated and left up to 12 months in storage at amazon warehouse? What
kind of damage would there be? I think the voltage cuts off at 3.5V with
samsungs switch so possibly it dropped to 3.4V min but what damage capacity self
discharge etc would there be in this state?
On October 17, 2016, Allen wrote:
I managed to revive an 18v Li-Ion drill battery sort of like this after it
apparently sat discharged in the cold over the winter. It was reading about 2.5v
if I remember correctly (minimum voltage should theoretically be ~15v, however
these batteries also seem to "sleep" or "hibernate" after a while and will show
~8v on a full charge so take that for what you will). The charger said it was
bad. I have to say I don't recommend doing this especially in light of the "one
week rule", but it could work in a pinch... I used a 12v lead-acid battery and a
couple wires. Hold for 5 seconds, let off, wait 5 seconds, and repeat. The
voltage slightly climbed. Then move up to 10 seconds once I was sure it wasn't
overheating or anything, and wait 10 seconds. Did this a few more times, then
went to 15, 20, 30 seconds keeping an eye out for heat and noise. Once it was
holding at around 7v I was able to put it on the charger without it being
declared bad. It took probably 2.5 hours to fully charge which is a lot longer
than normal, but it worked and I still use it sometimes about a year later. I
had another bad battery (same model) I tried to resurrect the same way that was
holding 0.55v, it was not recoverable. Never would hold at more than ~1.5v and I
gave up before I messed anything up.
On October 13, 2016, JohnA wrote:
I managed to reactivate a flat 18650 lithium ion battery that had been left in a
discharged state for several months. The battery voltage read 0V on a voltmeter
and would not take any charging current when a 4.2V power supply was applied to
the terminals. Here's what I did: Using a variable power supply set to 9V with
1A current limit, briefly (1 sec) connect it to the battery (+ to + and - to -).
The power supply may clamp, but that provided enough charge to reactivate the
battery protection circuit. Then recharge it fully with a standard lithium ion
battery charger. Worked a treat!
On September 15, 2016, Silvio wrote:
I bought a replacement lithium battery for my Asus TF300T tablet from Amazon.
When I replaced it, the charging LED did not even come on. I tested with a
multi-meter on the motherboard points where the battery connects to whilst
having the charger connected and my old battery shows two pins at 8.0V and two
at 3.5V whilst the others show 0V. The replacement shows two pins showing 8.05V
on whilst the others showing 0. I was using the 20V range. How can I boost this
new battery as most probably its shelf charge has gone too low and the tablet's
charger is not able to wake it up. Do I require special chargers or equipment to
boost it and if so to which points do I connect the boosting voltage? Any help
would be greatly appreciated as I cannot return the battery back. Thanks.
On August 18, 2016, Shelly wrote:
I bought a Lightning Pak RP2 (multi-function battery charger) recently. It came
with a wall plug and a 12v adapter. Plugged it into the wall to charge the
device and it's not taking a charge. Made the mistake of plugging in the cord to
the output 19v, 3.5A instead of the input 14v, 1A for less than a minute. Would
this affect the battery?
On July 7, 2016, John wrote:
@ Dave, I don't think the battery for your Toshiba laptop is actually taking a
full charge, you might be nearing the EOL (end of life) of the battery. you can
check to see if the battery is near EOL via the control panel, then select the
battery option
On June 27, 2016, Dave wrote:
I have a replacement Li-Ion battery for a Toshiba laptop. I did nothing to break
it in. I have subsequently been told that I need to run the battery down to 15%
or so which I've done a couple of times now. I plug in the AC and the battery
takes a 'full' charge. The problem (?) is that if I let the PC remain on, say an
hour or two where I walk away, at some point the battery no longer is being
charged and is running solely on battery power. If I unplug the AC and
immediately re-plug the battery icon indicates that now the battery is taking a
charge. Question: is the 'problem' with the battery or something with AC power
management.
On June 16, 2016, Anurag wrote:
I have a Sony xperia m phone. It was working fine. I once have touched positive
and negative terminal of the battery with my tounge. After that when I put back
the battery into phone it was not getting switched on. Even when tried to charge
it, it was not getting charged. Is the battery gone dead? Would I have to buy
new one? Is there anyway I can fix it? Please do reply. Thank you
On June 14, 2016, MadMonty wrote:
Wayne was lucky. The thing about Li-ion batteries is that there are not just the
two possibilities [it charges | it doesn't charge], but three [it charges | it
doesn't charge | it goes into thermal runaway and bursts into flame]. The
explanation quoted from this website, is this". "Do not boost lithium-based
batteries back to life that have dwelled below 1.5V/cell for a week or longer.
Copper shunts may have formed inside the cells that can lead to a partial or
total electrical short. When recharging, such a cell might become unstable,
causing excessive heat or show other anomalies." The argument often heard here
is that "I read about it working, so I tried it and nothing bad happened. So it
must be safe." Yeah, and five out of six Russian Roulette players think it's
perfectly safe too.
On June 14, 2016, Anna wrote:
Hi! I hope someone can help me(sorry for my english, it's not my first
language). So i have this sony vaio battery (li-ion VGP-BPS26A 11.1V)that i used
it on a laptop i had 3-4years ago. Didn't charged the battery at all and i
tested it on a friends laptop and it pop up a message "no battery" it doesn't
recognize the battery. She wants to use the battery but I don't know if it will
work ever again. I don't have any universal charger or any solution to try to
charge it. Can anyone tell me what to do about it and if there is a way to
possibly make it work again? To mention it's pretty expensive a new one. I hope
i can make it work someone, i don't really have clue about batteries but i did
researched and i didn't found much about it. Thank you! P.S. I also had another
battery from a dell from 3-4years ago that i didnt used (li-ion) and it did
worked and charged, had no problems with it.
On June 11, 2016, Wayne wrote:
Several years ago I piurchased a large number of 2 cell packs useing 18650 c
ells that had been shelf discharged, many to below .1 volt so none should be
restored according to this article but I removed the cells and started charging
them at .01c (have since leared that .1c is ok) then at .1c till they reached
4.1 volts or failed to charge. About 2/3 of them were in good condition (about
1/2 in neer new condition) and none have failed since then. Rather than
protection circuits, I build a pack with a series of paralelled cells then use a
charger that balances the voltage of each paralelled group. When not on charge
there is no discharge so can be stored at 40% charge as long as wanted. for best
life, store them in refirgerator.
On May 26, 2016, ISAH MOHAMMED wrote:
Good day everyone, please where can I get laptop battery cells. Am here in
Nigeria and am into dead laptop battery re-celling.thanks
On April 27, 2016, karl wrote:
With which tester did you do that: Cadex examined 294 mobile phones batteries
that were returned under warranty. The Cadex analyzer restored 91 percent to a
capacity of 80 percent and higher; 30 percent were inactive and needed a boost,
and 9 percent were non-serviceable. All restored packs were returned to service
and performed flawlessly. This study shows the large number of mobile phone
batteries that fail due to over-discharging and can be salvaged.
On April 15, 2016, Larry wrote:
I have two paralleled 3.7v, 2400mAh each, with a thermistor that reads 3.4v and
will not charge any higher. The charging port is MINI USB. I do not get any
voltage were the leads terminate on the unit. Could it be the batteries are
finished or is the thermistor faulty? Thanks
On April 4, 2016, John wrote:
P.S. My question is: Is the battery still good? why is the protection circuit
opening the circuit , in a manner that measuring by the external terminals i get
0V as reading? Thanks
On April 4, 2016, John wrote:
I bought two walkie talkies and they come with Li-ion 3.7V battery pack the
charger broke and i've not charged the batteries for 1.5 Years now. When i
measure the tension with a multimeter in the external terminals the tension is
0V but when i measure the tension of the battery (terminals) itself, before the
protection circuit, (yes i opened the plast battery enclosure... inside i found
a battery connected to a protection circuit) then i get 3.11V if i measure the
tension between the (+) External Terminal of the battery and the (-) Internal
Terminal of the battery case i get 3,11 Volts too
On March 10, 2016, Mad Monty wrote:
Bring nearly any type of battery back to life so it's just like new again? I
don't think this is possible. Most battery chemistry is NOT reversible (and
manufacturers warn you not to try to recharge them as they may burst). There is
a wealth of information on this site, and others as well, that disproves such
claims. Of the truly rechargeable batteries (NiMH, LiOn, NiCad, etc.), all will
lose capacity over time. Some can, under exceptional circumstances and complex
protocols, have some of their lost capacity restored. (For example, NiCads have
a memory effect such that if you repeatedly discharge them only say, half-way,
they stop providing power when they reach the half-way point. You may be able to
restore them to some extent by repeatedly charging and discharging them almost
completely - sort of exercise them back into shape. But this is exceptional, and
you have to do each cell individually - not the whole battery at once - to avoid
reverse-charging and ruining the weakest cells.) People want miracle devices all
the time, and other people want to make them happy by selling them. They're
usually cheap enough that it's not worth returning them, and if you do, good
luck getting your money back.
On March 10, 2016, Ashanta Abdur-Rauf wrote:
I have a number of Wahl Arco Se cordless clippers and even more of the Type
1854/1855 NIMH batteries to go with them. They are super expensive to replace
but seem to die quickly even after fully charged. Is there a way to prolong
their life or somehow bring them closer to how thwy originally worked?
On February 25, 2016, jorge arraiol wrote:
hello , that feature that you say is a BMS (battery management system) right ? i
was searching for a charger that has a special feature to awaken lithium
battery's and i am in doubt if this charger from optimate has it or not... 1.
Pre-qualification / BMS reset: The charge program is selected according to
battery voltage. For batteries with internal BMS (battery management system)
that includes a low voltage cut-out; OptiMate Lithium has a BMS reset program to
reconnect the internal cells with the battery posts so that charging can
commence. http://accumate.co.uk/optimate lithium 0.8.htm Can you confirm it to
me ? thank you
On February 18, 2016, Dania wrote:
I figured, thanks Mad Monty
On February 5, 2016, Dania wrote:
Will a battery from a Bluetooth device like a headset need this boost?
On January 26, 2016, mohsen.m.shabestari wrote:
Segway battery drained completely down now won’t take a charge, hi with all my
respect my lenovo le z500 laptop le =ion battery is in good condition capacity
and other-are all OK it coult not able to charge compactly i starts to calibrate
the battery from that time it dost accept any charge and has been remain in zero
charge please let me know if i can save my battery thanks so much mohsen
On January 8, 2016, Ray Aguilar wrote:
Segway battery drained completely down now won't take a charge,
On December 16, 2015, Caleb wrote:
If my battery pack from cordless tool was affected by water, would that cause
the li ion batteries to go into hibernation mode? I looked over the circuit
board and found nothing damaged. Can I bring the li ion 18650's in this pack
back to life or are they garbage?
On November 29, 2015, Stub Mandrel wrote:
You can get little chips from Avago technologies that will put a very low
current into a discharged LiON until it rises to a safe threshold and then
charge normally. Better idea than blasting with a high current IMHO.
On September 11, 2015, Gaser wrote:
Hello, My son HP Touchpad was left till it is drained. Left it in the charger
for more than a week with no hope. I decided to crack it open and get the
battery out to check if the battery or the circuit has an issue. At the first,
the battery didn’t read any volt. The battery has 5 connectors 2 Red, 2 Black, 1
Green, 1 yellow, and 1 blue Tried to charge it on Red & Black terminal using my
Smart Charger, but since the charger couldn’t read the volt it reported over
voltage error. So decided to remove the rapping and see the battery, so I found
that the battery has a circuit inside it, and the actual battery has 3.4 volt.
So remove/desolder the battery from the circuit and charged it using my charger,
and not it is 4.18v, but when connected to its circuit still doesn’t read
anything. I purchased another replacement and has the same issue with it, so not
sure if there is something is needed to be done to activate the circuit, or am I
done and should get my son another tablet. Thanks, Gaser
On June 22, 2015, Clague wrote:
Left my phone in car in direct sunlight. It was over 100F in car. Phone shut off
and was burning hot. Battery was performing poorly needing daily recharges even
with little use. To cool phone down I stuck it in freezer and forgot about it.
About three hours later I took it out. After thawing for about an hour I tried
turning it on and was surprised that it started up and the battery was 85%. It
has been over a day now and battery is still at 57 percent without having been
charged.
On April 14, 2015, Rick Whitehouse wrote:
Dear Battery University: I have a Ravpower 5600 mAH external battery, and
charger for recharging my cell phone. The unit comes with a handy flashlight;
unfortunately after placing the unit in my lunch bag, I think the flash light
accidentally came on. After a few days I took out my Ravpower 5600 to charge my
cell phone. I found my poor little charger completely dead. Is there a safe
procedure for recovering my cell phone charger now? If I figure out what to do
before getting my answer, I'll be sure to share the info with Battery
University. Best Wishes, Rick
On February 16, 2015, prince ashiru wrote:
please my aspire one laptop battery was run down and i try to charge it in the
3rd day but its doesnt charge and the battery is last for upto 4 hours before
... now its said plugged in, not charging... please what can i do to get the
battery on back
On January 11, 2015, nihal wrote:
i have a ipod . with the same kind of battery.but i lost it and got it after
many days.so the battery is completely drained.now how to fix it.do anyone have
a solution other than changing the battery
On November 19, 2014, Stan wrote:
More good news! The battery charged to full capacity as it normally would,
without any unusual occurrences. As I type this comment, it still has 8% charge
as it has been gradually discharging for the past three and a half hours on
light usage (non-stop music playback, screen set to not dim or turn off and
minimal work on some worksheets. The music is playing back from an external hard
drive without an external power source). I know that it could have lasted even
longer with the laptop sitting idle, but I wasn't so patient to wait for a slow
discharge. I'm never gonna discharge it completely again, but I want it to get
critically low (3%) and let it shut down then charge it full capacity while the
laptop is off. I must say I'm happy with the results, it's like nothing ever
happened to the battery despite having stayed "dead" for at least three weeks. I
was mostly concerned about permanent damage to the cells due to staying in that
state for too long, but my fears are no more! Thanks battery university for this
priceless piece of information, saved me bucks for a smart charger or God knows
what else I was gonna spend on to get out of this situation!
On November 19, 2014, Stan wrote:
I had suffered the same "battery dead, not charging after complete discharge"
scenario some two weeks ago on a brand new hp06 battery that had barely lasted a
month. The older one "died" in the same way, although it was well within its
final leg after a couple of years of usage and it barely lasted half an hour on
idle! I took it apart for curiosity and some newbie studies. Anyway, the
replacement would not charge at all so I decided to try reviving it from its
deep sleep. I used an ordinary multi-voltage AC-DC adapter and applied 12v and
1A for a second and voila! The battery is now charging in the laptop. The
current capacity is steadily rising by the minute and the temperature is normal.
I'm keeping an eye out for any abnormal rise in temperature, but so far nothing
alarming. I plan to recalibrate it after this charge cycle and will definitely
post on any success or failure. If this works, I will be saved lots of money
replacing the battery and the inconvenience of returning it to the dealer in
pursuit of warranty facilitation.
On September 30, 2014, sahafdeen wrote:
my li-ion mobile battery 2500mah , working well upto 50% ,after sudden drain and
directly come to 11%,, only 3 months completed (buying), anyone give
solution????
On September 30, 2014, Li wrote:
I have a Hitachi drill with 10.5V battery (BLC1015). after 3 years of not using,
the battery does not charge any more. checking the voltage reveals that it has
only 2.6V left. I took a USB charger (an old LG cell phone charger 0.2A, 5V) and
cut the end and exposed the wires. stripped the end, and connected with the
battery red to +, yellow to - with two metal paper clips. there is not much
change after 15 minutes, so I let it go over night. the voltage became 3.1V. I
placed the battery to its original charger, and bingo! it started to charge. the
battery works now with the drill. Interestingly, the spare battery would cost 50
dollars, but buying a new drill with two batteries and the charger would cost
90. I got the idea from here and a youtube video, and figured that it could be
useful to some folks who would get to this site. it saved me fifty dollars and
reduced waste. I think the key is the slow charging of the battery to over the
limit set by the charger.
On September 10, 2014, emmit wrote:
Hi have it checked for shorts on mod ans atty if okay try this type of battery
as a test 18650 3.7V UltraFire4500mAh PCB Protected Li-ion Rechargeable Battery
$5.00 on fleebay.com cheap as chips..the effest is the rolls royce of battery
but not for your mod....you need protected batteries..you have proll fried the
effest analso you can get an all in battery and mod protector using a Authentic
Sigelei Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod from your supplier for
about $10.00 once you have it sorted buy effest or sony protected batts Art
On September 10, 2014, Usmc_0143 wrote:
That is the exact mod that I have except mine is black but same one. No I
haven't checked for shorts. I friend at work is my expert. He is the one I go to
for questions and to build my coils and stuff. I really new to the mechanical
mod universe. I got the battery from Amazon. It's Effest brand. My atomizer is
TOBH V3 Atty. I got my mod from fluid apes.com as well as the atomizer.
On September 10, 2014, emmit wrote:
FASTTECH INFO MAYBE Stingray X Style Stainless Steel + Copper Mechanical Mod
18350 / 18500 / 18650 510 threading connection Copper body wrapped with
stainless steel Copper top cap wrapped with stainless steel with floating pin
and vent holes Is this the mod you have? Bottom magnetic firing button, the
locking ring is NOT reverse-threaded Locking ring material: Polished stainless
steel Silver plated copper battery contacts Comes with a hybrid adapter and a
510 drip tip Houses single 18650/18500/18350 battery (batteries sold separately)
22mm external diameter 18.6mm internal diameter
========================================================= Connection Threading
510 Telescoping Mod No Variable Voltage (VV) No Variable Wattage (VW) No
================================================================ Defeat 2500mAh
IMR 18650 3.7V LI-MN cant find this battery on web search can I take it that you
are from the USA? where did you get that battery from? was it fast tech same as
the stingray X sounds like a short to me,Glad it didnt happen in your pocket!!!
...very painful what atomizer are you using? have you checked for shorts on that
and what ohms/resistance on atty Art
On September 10, 2014, usmc_0143 wrote:
I have a Stingray X MOD. I don't know if only accepts protected or non
proctected, but the two batteries that I do have are I believe non-Protected. It
is a flat top. How do you know if the mechanical mod has a built in battery
protector, and whether or not it only accepts protected or non-protected?
On September 10, 2014, emmit wrote:
Hi what EC mod have you tried to vape using this battery/ Most vaping mods have
built in battery protection.. Is this the corrent battery for that mod? is it
flat top,nipple top? some mods only accept non protcted batterise, and some with
battery protection will accept protected batteris I have many modss i mainly use
a vamo with 3.7v non protected flay top Art :)
On September 9, 2014, usmc_0143 wrote:
I just got my Defeat 2500mAh IMR 18650 3.7V LI-MN batteries in the mail on
Saturday (and today is Tuesday). I charged the batteries on Sunday and got my
vapeing mod on Monday. I went to put the battery in and shortly after "trying"
to Vale the battery got hot. I took it out and it looks like on the bottom of
the battery the purple skin either peeled or got burned. I waited awhile for to
cool off and the charger doesn't even recognize there is a battery there. Any
ideas what happened and if I can do something to get the battery working again?
On September 2, 2014, Paolo wrote:
Can I try to awaken a li-po battery from a Thinkpad notebook? The Thinkpad don't
charge it.
On March 28, 2014, e2cc_guru wrote:
I have designed a system which uses a 7.4 V, 6,6AH Li-Ion battery pack (18650)
in the configuration 2S-3P. It is charged using a uC based software algorithm
which is CC till 8.4V and then CV till current falls below 0.05C. I charge the
battery using a 12V DC charger or a 12 V Solar Panel. Obviously there is a
bick-converter in between which manages the voltage applied to the battery.
Recently I am getting field complaints that batteries which go to sleep would
not revive using the software charger. Can any one suggest what is wrong or what
I should try? Please ask if you need more information.
On March 4, 2014, Emil wrote:
I just waked to life two 18650 batteries that came from a dead laptop battery I
opened, the battery had 8 cells, four was complete dead, two was good and two
had around 2V. I used a iMax B6 charger and used NiMH charging with 0.1A current
limit, charged the battery untill it shown 3.2V and then swopped over to lithium
charging. I put a iron pot over the battery lying on my concrete floor in the
garage while I charged, in case the battery was blowing up or starting to burn.
On February 6, 2014, Sailor Jo wrote:
Very enlightening article. Still, I need to do some more research in order to
understand the intricacies between the various types of lithium batteries. The
reading made me aware of the charger PIXO C4. I thought I found the ultimate
charger until I checked the German manufacturers web site and the batteries that
cannot be charged with this unit. A real eye opener, especially as it cannot
charge the 18650 batteries that I have a problem with. Just too bad.
On January 24, 2014, jach wrote:
read again what mad monty wrote above. wise words. lithium chemistry is POTENT,
experimenting with advice provided in a forum without understanding the basics
of what your dealing with isnt recommended.and is literally russian roulette
,attempting to duplicate what worked in someone elses case , may explode in your
face
On December 29, 2013, johny wrote:
according to what i've read, you can revive a dead li-ion with a low-current
trickle charger. if the battery does not spring past 2.5 volts within one minute
of trickle-charging, then the battery should be discarded. even if keeping on
the trickle longer than one minute revives it! is because the battery chemistry
changes after it's discharged and unused too long, making it dangerous to revive
or use. if it takes longer than one minute to revive, then the battery is
dangerous, and should be discarded. how to revive: http://youtu.be/CCQU8eW3TGk i
don't understand what this guy is doing: http://youtu.be/xyeHKKe2z0Q
On December 17, 2013, RKSINGH wrote:
BETTERY OF DIGITAL CAMERA(DCR-DVD610 ) HAS FULLY DISCHARGED. PL CONFIRM, HOW TO
CHARGE.
On November 24, 2013, David wrote:
I have a weird issue with a protected 14500 battery. The battery shows 3.4v and
will lit up a small LED (not a Cree or high output LED), but will not take input
charge by the charger (charger light green like if it was not charging instead
of orange) and when trying to boost it up using another 4.2v 14500 battery
connecting + and - together, like mentioned above, it doesn't seem to work at
all, i.e. the defective 14500 won't accept any input. It has about 200ma left
out of ~600mh max capacity and will not power up my Cree P4 LED flashlight at
all while the other 14500 battery will (even a 1.2NiMh battery doesn't have
problem powering this light). Now I'm thinking the protection circuit might be
defective and locked itself up whenever I try to input voltage/current or draw
too much current out of it. Would there be anyway to save this battery by either
resetting/bypassing the protection or simply physically removing the protection
PCB ? It's a brand new battery fresh from the store, and although they're
sending me a replacement one anyway, I'd hate to waste a salvageable product.
Thanks !
On November 6, 2013, Rodelion wrote:
Often I get frozen cells (showing 0V) to work again by putting it in a universal
li-ion charger several times. Universal li-ion chargers give all kinds of pulses
to the cell to figure out what kind of voltage and polarity the cell has. I
think those pulses make the battery work again. On another instance, with a
Nikon EN-EL5, this didn't work... After a lot of effort I found out there are
two hidden contacts underneath a little seal, so five in total. Through
trial-and-error I found out that the hidden contact next to the '+' corresponds
with the positive terminal, and the one next to the ground, corresponds with the
negative terminal. I think there's a condenser between these two contacts, and I
used a 6V lithium battery to charge it. When I got at about 3.7V, the battery
suddenly started working again. While doing this, both batteries became warm,
but not quite hot. If a cell becomes really hot, I think you're on dangerous
ground.
On September 25, 2013, mark wrote:
Does anyone have a working battery for a schwinn Transit bicycle i can buy?
On September 24, 2013, Yu Jun Gu wrote:
Just brought two efest 14500 protected batteries back to life. Thank you for
this article!! They must have been in storage for a very long time, got them
from a friend who didn't want them anymore. Was having a helluva time. Charger
didn't register them. The way I woke them up was sticking them into a AA battery
box I had laying around and connecting an 18650 (Positive to positive negative
to negative) to the lead wires for 30 seconds or less. Freaked me out the first
time around because the 14500 got real hot and I thought I had thermal runaway
on my hands. But it cooled off again and when I checked the voltage it was at
3.07v. Repeated that step with the second battery just much shorter duration of
charge with the 18650 this time around, like 10-15 seconds. Woke it right up. In
the charger now recognized and charging as usual.
On July 20, 2013, emmit wrote:
The batteries you have for the e-cig have a turn on / off sequence 5 pushes in 3
seconds or less will turn the device on (push on/ push off non latched)...and
the same will turn the battery off..the battery also has a fail safe It will
auto shut off if the button is depressed for more than 10 seconds (could be
7/8/9 seconds depends on battery type eg.ego
On July 10, 2013, s.pirie wrote:
my wife has been using e cigarettes for three months now using ego t brand who
give no back up for faults , these use lithium ion batteries , the fault is no
operation of the atomiser although the battery voltage shows around 3.8 which is
what is expected although the 3.8v is showing at the battery without pressing
the operating button which you would expect this to make the atomiser work
constantly with no need to press the button, this does not happen . Does anyone
have any idea how i can fix this fault ? My wife is in desperation as all of her
5 batteries faulted on the same day which is very curious .
On June 28, 2013, Sean M wrote:
How do you estimate when a lithium battery is at 40%? As a rough example, if
your battery pack normally lasts, say 10 hours under continuous use, you'll
reach 40% of usable capacity after six hours. If all you go on is variables, you
won't know. the simplest is to use the above method.
On June 20, 2013, Mike wrote:
to AbdEl-Rahman: unfortunately you would have to take to battery out of your
iphone, you need to jump start the li-ion battery with a high voltage at a low
amperage which in turn would fry the circuits on you phone, there are tons of
walkthroughs on how to remove and replace iphone batteries online, its not that
difficult especially if you document where each screw goes and how you took it
apart piece by piece. MAC/Windows professional with 10+ years tech experience
On May 21, 2013, carribawhore wrote:
If you have an old camera li ion cell charger, like canon. You can easily bring
dead batteries back to live. Without danger. Just connect the + and ~ of the
charger with wires directly on the poles of the li ion akku. Then insert an
empty camera battery in the charger and there you go.
On May 5, 2013, Parker Thornton wrote:
Any Batteries Plus or Batteries Plus Bulbs can recycle them for you. Please
don't throw them away. They also have a Cadex and a laptop battery reconditioner
and can restore batteries for you if you ask, usually for free
On April 13, 2013, Mad Monty wrote:
So you want simple instructions on bringing a Li-ion back to life? Here it is:
Choose either (1) to buy an expensive smart charger (like Cadex, above - no , I
don't have any stake in the company); or (2) Replace the battery. That's it.
Only those who can tolerate a brief explanation should read further. The reason
not to try to fool with it yourself is that it really can go up in your face.
Literally. Lithium-ion chemistry is not only more dangerous but also more
complicated than NiH. All the stuff you don't want to read or try to understand
is exactly the stuff in need to do to prevent a serious accident. A smart
charger figures it all out for you so you don't get burned or blinded or destroy
your laptop or whatever. If you try to do it yourself, you have to think through
all the algorithms, make complicated measurements, and administer the charge,
all the while continuing to monitor and measure and make adjustments until
either the battery reaches its maximum charge or you determine it is beyond
hope. (Ever look inside a laptop battery? There is a whole slew of sensors and
circuitry attached to each cell, whose primary requirement is to prevent harm
and lawsuits.) Yes, some people – many people – have been lucky when they have
tried to rejuvenate batteries in simple ways. If they played Russian roulette,
five out of six would think that was pretty safe too. Madly yours, Mad Monty
On April 13, 2013, Oscar Ormond wrote:
Take a technology that is very very difficult to get right then after spending
hundreds of millions of dollars on research and it still not very good, knowing
people want to use it simply go ahead and put it on the market. Take the money
and run. Simple explenation.
On April 5, 2013, sam wrote:
guys can you please help me to restore my fully discharge li ion battery on my
laptop,its about 5 months later after i bought it,i frequently using ac
connection so the battery i've only used it ones a week,,but now its already
fully discharge and i don't how to awaken it..i already put it on my laptop but
it;s not charging anymore,,, thanks
On January 29, 2013, AbdEl-Rahman wrote:
That's actually very great what you guys are writing , but actually needs some
simplification on what should be done to boost it again on duty ,ya know. So my
request is for you guys to offer me a solution (SAFE Of course) to do to my
iPhone Li-ion polymer battery ,that also doesn't include removing it out of the
phone . I would be very grateful to have an expert opinion ,because I am done
with those videos that never give a solution straight to a person,ya know .
Thank you for your time all
On January 11, 2013, fred hreyer wrote:
How do you estimate when a lithium battery is at 40%?
On December 13, 2012, Mad Monty wrote:
If Li ion batteries become unpredictably dangerous if left discharged too long,
it would seem that no "found" batteries (e.g., old laptop unused for a "long
time") would be safe to use. Have I got that right? And following up, how best
to dispose of them?
On July 17, 2012, krist0ph3r wrote:
can i boost a cellphone battery using the regular charger, or do i need some
special equipment to do so? would 5V/1A be enough?
On June 25, 2012, jake wrote:
What no one has said here is that Lion Batteries are prone to explode...Just see
youtube. Be very careful while resurrecting batteries always work under a
perspex sheet with gloves., You can do almost any batteries..
On April 22, 2012, Brian wrote:
Too involved and way off the topic. How do I prolong lithiom ion battery life?
:/
On April 3, 2012, guy00 wrote:
I've tried to charge a battery that was not used for a year, but when i stopped
using it it had a partial charge... now i measured it with a multimeter and it
showed 0v (the protection kicked in). But when measuring between the negative
and positive terminal AND the middle terminal (cell phone battery), it showed
1.09 and 1.04, respectively. I thought the battery is @ 2.13v, and tried to
recharge it directly from the cell phone charger (red wire to the positive and
black to the negative). A spark flied, but i continued to charge for another
minute. Then i took a multimeter, measured, and it showed 3.2v :). Then i
continued to apply charging for another 2mins and got the battery up to 3.48v.
Currently left the battery like that, it lits up a white LED very bright. I'm
wondering is that battery safe for using now, i dont really need that battery,
but if its working fine maybe i'll find use for it since the cell phone i got it
from is dead :)
On February 14, 2012, tytower wrote:
I had such a battery Hit it with a 40V pulse for 500 nsecs and it came good
immediately
On April 19, 2011, fhhuber wrote:
Note that some low voltage cutoffs are programmed for a SET voltage, others are
based on RELATIVE voltage. A set voltage cut-off would turn off power at the
same voltage regardless of charge state when the battery was plugged in. A
relative voltage cut-off "detects" the battery voltage at plug-in and then the
cut-off is a percentage of that voltage. Because many hobbyist Radio Control
system ESCs (Electronic Speed Controllers) use the RELATIVE voltage, it is
imperative that a battery used in these applications be FULLY charged when it is
plugged in. A partially charged battery being plugged in can result in the
cutoff being low enough to damage the battery.


FIND AN ARTICLE




TABLE OF CONTENTS

Basics You Should Know
Introduction
BU-001: Sharing Battery Knowledge BU-002: Introduction BU-003: Dedication
Crash Course on Batteries
BU-101: When Was the Battery Invented? BU-102: Early Innovators BU-103: Global
Battery Markets BU-103a: Battery Breakthroughs: Myth or Fact? BU-104: Getting to
Know the Battery BU-104a: Comparing the Battery with Other Power Sources
BU-104b: Battery Building Blocks BU-104c: The Octagon Battery – What makes a
Battery a Battery BU-105: Battery Definitions and what they mean BU-106:
Advantages of Primary Batteries BU-106a: Choices of Primary Batteries BU-107:
Comparison Table of Secondary Batteries
Battery Types
BU-201: How does the Lead Acid Battery Work? BU-201a: Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM)
BU-201b: Gel Lead Acid Battery BU-202: New Lead Acid Systems BU-203:
Nickel-based Batteries BU-204: How do Lithium Batteries Work? BU-205: Types of
Lithium-ion BU-206: Lithium-polymer: Substance or Hype? BU-208: Cycling
Performance BU-209: How does a Supercapacitor Work? BU-210: How does the Fuel
Cell Work? BU-210a: Why does Sodium-sulfur need to be heated BU-210b: How does
the Flow Battery Work? BU-211: Alternate Battery Systems BU-212: Future
Batteries BU-214: Summary Table of Lead-based Batteries BU-215: Summary Table of
Nickel-based Batteries BU-216: Summary Table of Lithium-based Batteries BU-217:
Summary Table of Alternate Batteries BU-218: Summary Table of Future Batteries
Packaging and Safety
BU-301: A look at Old and New Battery Packaging BU-301a: Types of Battery Cells
BU-302: Series and Parallel Battery Configurations BU-303: Confusion with
Voltages BU-304: Why are Protection Circuits Needed? BU-304a: Safety Concerns
with Li-ion BU-304b: Making Lithium-ion Safe BU-304c: Battery Safety in Public
BU-305: Building a Lithium-ion Pack BU-306: What is the Function of the
Separator? BU-307: How does Electrolyte Work? BU-308: Availability of Lithium
BU-309: How does Graphite Work in Li-ion? BU-310: How does Cobalt Work in
Li-ion? BU-311: Battery Raw Materials
Charge Methods
BU-401: How do Battery Chargers Work? BU-401a: Fast and Ultra-fast Chargers
BU-402: What Is C-rate? BU-403: Charging Lead Acid BU-404: What is Equalizing
Charge? BU-405: Charging with a Power Supply BU-406: Battery as a Buffer BU-407:
Charging Nickel-cadmium BU-408: Charging Nickel-metal-hydride BU-409: Charging
Lithium-ion BU-409a: Why do Old Li-ion Batteries Take Long to Charge? BU-409b:
Charging Lithium Iron Phosphate BU-410: Charging at High and Low Temperatures
BU-411: Charging from a USB Port BU-412: Charging without Wires BU-413: Charging
with Solar, Turbine BU-413a: How to Store Renewable Energy in a Battery BU-414:
How do Charger Chips Work? BU-415: How to Charge and When to Charge?
Discharge Methods
BU-501: Basics about Discharging BU-501a: Discharge Characteristics of Li-ion
BU-502: Discharging at High and Low Temperatures BU-503: Determining Power
Deliver by the Ragone Plot BU-504: How to Verify Sufficient Battery Capacity
The Battery and You
"Smart" Battery
BU-601: How does a Smart Battery Work? BU-602: How does a Battery Fuel Gauge
Work? BU-603: How to Calibrate a “Smart” Battery BU-603a: Calibrating SMBus
Batteries with Impedance Tracking BU-604: How to Process Data from a “Smart”
Battery Testing and Calibrating Smart Batteries
From Birth to Retirement
BU-701: How to Prime Batteries BU-702: How to Store Batteries BU-703: Health
Concerns with Batteries BU-704: How to Transport Batteries BU-704a: Shipping
Lithium-based Batteries by Air BU-704b: CAUTION & Overpack Labels BU-704c: Class
9 Label BU-704d: NFPA 704 Rating BU-704e: Battery for Personal and Fleet Use
BU-705: How to Recycle Batteries BU-705a: Battery Recycling as a Business
BU-706: Summary of Do's and Don'ts
How To Prolong Battery Life
General
BU-801: Setting Battery Performance Standards BU-801a: How to Rate Battery
Runtime BU-801b: How to Define Battery Life BU-802: What Causes Capacity Loss?
BU-802a: How does Rising Internal Resistance affect Performance? BU-802b: What
does Elevated Self-discharge Do? BU-802c: How Low can a Battery be Discharged?
BU-803: Can Batteries Be Restored? BU-803a: Cell Matching and Balancing BU-803b:
What causes Cells to Short? BU-803c: Loss of Electrolyte
Lead Acid
BU-804: How to Prolong Lead-acid Batteries BU-804a: Corrosion, Shedding and
Internal Short BU-804b: Sulfation and How to Prevent it BU-804c: Acid
Stratification and Surface Charge BU-805: Additives to Boost Flooded Lead Acid
BU-806: Tracking Battery Capacity and Resistance as part of Aging BU-806a: How
Heat and Loading affect Battery Life
Nickel-based
BU-807: How to Restore Nickel-based Batteries BU-807a: Effect of Zapping
Lithium-ion
BU-808: How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries BU-808a: How to Awaken a Sleeping
Li-ion BU-808b: What Causes Li-ion to Die? BU-808c: Coulombic and Energy
Efficiency with the Battery BU-809: How to Maximize Runtime BU-810: What
Everyone Should Know About Aftermarket Batteries BU-811: Assuring Minimum
Operational Reserve Energy (MORE)
Battery Testing and Monitoring
BU-901: Fundamentals in Battery Testing BU-901b: How to Measure the Remaining
Useful Life of a Battery BU-902: How to Measure Internal Resistance BU-902a: How
to Measure CCA BU-903: How to Measure State-of-charge BU-904: How to Measure
Capacity BU-905: Testing Lead Acid Batteries BU-905a: Testing Starter Batteries
in Vehicles BU-905b: Knowing when to Replace a Starter Battery BU-906: Testing
Nickel-based Batteries BU-907: Testing Lithium-based Batteries BU-907a: Battery
Rapid-test Methods BU-907b: Advancements in Battery Testing BU-907c: Cloud
Analytics in Batteries BU-908: Battery Management System (BMS) BU-909: Battery
Test Equipment BU-910: How to Repair a Battery Pack BU-911: How to Repair a
Laptop Battery BU-915: Testing Battery with EIS BU-916: Deep Battery Diagnostics
BU-917: In Search for Performance Transparency with Batteries BU-918: Battery
Endurance Plan
Batteries as Power Source
Amazing Value of a Battery
BU-1001: Batteries in Industries BU-1002: Electric Powertrain, then and now
BU-1002a: Hybrid Electric Vehicles and the Battery BU-1002b: Environmental
Benefit of the Electric Powertrain BU-1003: Electric Vehicle (EV) BU-1003a:
Battery Aging in an Electric Vehicle (EV) BU-1004: Charging an Electric Vehicle
BU-1005: Does the Fuel Cell-powered Vehicle have a Future? BU-1006: Cost of
Mobile and Renewable Power BU-1007: Net Calorific Value BU-1008: Working towards
Sustainability BU-1009: Battery Paradox - Afterword
Information
BU-1101: Glossary BU-1102: Abbreviations BU-1103: Bibliography BU-1104: About
the Author BU-1105: About Cadex (Sponsor) BU-1106: Author's Creed BU-1107:
Disclaimer BU-1108: Copyright
Learning Tools
BU-1501 Battery History BU-1502 Basics about Batteries BU-1503 How to Maintain
Batteries BU-1504 Battery Test & Analyzing Devices BU-1505 Short History of
Cadex
Battery Articles
Perception of a Battery Tester Green Deal Risk Management in Batteries
Predictive Test Methods for Starter Batteries Why Mobile Phone Batteries do not
last as long as an EV Battery Battery Rapid-test Methods How to Charge Li-ion
with a Parasitic Load Ultra-fast Charging Assuring Safety of Lithium-ion in the
Workforce Diagnostic Battery Management Tweaking the Mobile Phone Battery
Battery Test Methods Battery Testing and Safety How to Make Battery Performance
Transparent Battery Diagnostics On-the-fly Making Battery State-of-health
Transparent Batteries will eventually die, but when and how? Why does Pokémon Go
rob so much Battery Power? How to Care for the Battery Tesla’s iPhone Moment —
How the Powerwall will Change Global Energy Use Painting the Battery Green by
giving it a Second Life Charging without Wires — A Solution or Laziness What
everyone should know about Battery Chargers A Look at Cell Formats and how to
Build a good Battery Battery Breakthroughs — Myth or Fact? Rapid-test Methods
that No Longer Work Shipping Lithium-based Batteries by Air How to make
Batteries more Reliable and Longer Lasting What causes Lithium-ion to die?
Safety of Lithium-ion Batteries Recognizing Battery Capacity as the Missing Link
Managing Batteries for Warehouse Logistics Caring for your Starter Battery
Giving Batteries a Second Life How to Make Batteries in Medical Devices More
Reliable Possible Solutions for the Battery Problem on the Boeing 787 Impedance
Spectroscopy Checks Battery Capacity in 15 Seconds How to Improve the Battery
Fuel Gauge Examining Loading Characteristics on Primary and Secondary Batteries
Language Pool
BU-001: Compartir conocimiento sobre baterías BU-002: Introducción BU-003:
Dedicatoria BU-104: Conociendo la Batería BU-302: Configuraciones de Baterías en
Serie y Paralelo
Batteries in a Portable World book
Change-log of “Batteries in a Portable World,” 4th edition: Chapters 1 - 3
Change-log of “Batteries in a Portable World,” 4th edition: Chapters 4 - 10
View Archived Posts
Does the Battery Fuel Gauge Lie? Weird and Wonderful Batteries Will Secondary
Batteries replace Primaries? Advancements in Lead Acid Can the Lead-acid Battery
Compete in Modern Times? Understanding Lithium-ion Pouch Cell - Small but not
Trouble Free Lithium-ion Safety Concerns Will the Reusable Alkaline Battery have
a Future? How does Internal Resistance affect Performance? Non-correctable
Battery Problems How to Service Two-way Radio Batteries How to Service Cell
Phone Batteries Industrial Applications Computerized Battery Testing Why do
Different Test Methods Provide Dissimilar Readings? Wheeled and Stationary
Starting is Easy, but can I Steer and Brake? Are Hybrid Cars Here to Stay? The
Cost of Portable Power The Future Battery Battery Testing Equipment Battery Fuel
Gauge: Factual or Fallacy? What's the Best Battery? Four Renegades of Battery
Failure The Secrets of Battery Runtime Modern Lead Battery Systems Is
Lithium-ion the Ideal Battery? The High-power Lithium-ion The Smart Battery Will
the Fuel Cell have a Second Life? The Battery and the Digital Load Wireless
Communications Memory: Myth or Fact? Portable Computing Advanced Battery
Analyzers Rapid Testing Portable Batteries Observing Batteries in Everyday Life
What Causes Car Batteries to Fail? Is the Electric Car Mature? Batteries against
Fossil Fuel Is Li-ion the Solution for the Electric Vehicle? Battery Statistics
BU-1109: Links to Cadex website and Battery University


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