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Home Destinations Four amazing days in Cascais, Portugal’s seaside resort near
Lisbon
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FOUR AMAZING DAYS IN CASCAIS, PORTUGAL’S SEASIDE RESORT NEAR LISBON
by Jan Schroder January 5, 2023
January 5, 2023
Praia da Ribeira, which overlooks Cascais Marina is the main beach in Cascais.
(Photo by Jan Schroder)
938
I was wondering if a four-day stay in Cascais was too long. We could have spent
a month there. Sometimes referred to as the Beverly Hills of Lisbon, this
former fishing town on the coast of Portugal is now a thriving resort
destination.
Just 15 miles east of Lisbon, Cascais has stunning beaches, 19th-century
mansions, amazing seafood restaurants, fort, lighthouse and fantastic farmers
market. It’s the perfect place to stay for visits to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and
Sintra Cascais National Park.
Neutral during World War II, it was also a hub for spies. And the inspiration
for James Bond.
DAY 1: INTRODUCTION TO CASCAIS, PORTUGAL
Casa de Santa Maria
We arrived on a glorious sunny day in September and began our stay in Cascais in
the best way possible – with a typical Portuguese lunch at Restaurant Taverna da
Praca inside the Citadel of Cascais. We dove right into the Portuguese way of
life, which includes a culture of eating and drinking.
It was the first of many, many meals that included seafood, specifically cod,
the beloved national dish of Portugal. We also enjoyed a refreshing glass of
white wine while seated in a quiet courtyard. We were joined by the lovely Inês
Oliveira of Visit Cascais who took us on a tour after lunch to show us more of
the city.
Chris and I at lunch at Restaurant Taverna da Praca inside the Citadel of
Cascais. Note the white pavers of the courtyard. I supposed it’s fitting we
didn’t move the wine glass before taking this photo. Wine was a central theme of
our visit to Portugal.
We walked around the Citadel, which was built between the 15th and 17th
centuries to defend the coastline. It was once an official residence of the
royal family.
Cascais, a city of around 215,000, has several beaches and we could see Praia da
Ribeira, the city’s main beach, from a boardwalk outside the Citadel. It was
filled with sun bathers and swimmers enjoying the hot weather.
Sun bathers enjoy the rocky areas as well as the sandy beaches in Cascais.
We strolled by Casa de Santa Maria, a home built in the 19th century that played
hosts to many members of European royal families, including the Duke and Duchess
of Windsor, who stayed here for a month in 1940. It is now open to the public.
Many wealthy people came to Cascais during World War II as Portugal remained
neutral during the war. Ian Fleming was a regular visitor and stayed at the
Estoril Palácio Hotel which housed Casino Estoril, the site of several spy
encounters and thought to be the inspiration for him to create the character of
James Bond. The hotel is featured in “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”
Cascais still attracts an upscale clientele and is sometimes referred to as the
Beverly Hills of Lisbon.
O Pescador, formerly a tavern for fishermen. We sat in front of that fish tank
on the right that held giant blue lobsters the size of chihuahuas. I tried not
to think about eating their friends while they looked over my shoulder.
We continued our seafood feeding frenzy with dinner at O Pescador, where we sat
on the patio outside by a fish tank containing giant blue lobsters about the
size of a chihuahua. Opting to share a dish of paella, we were stunned when a
huge copper bowl filled with seafood arrived at our table. We were told, “In
Spain if you order paella you have to hunt for the seafood. In Portugal, you
have to hunt for the rice.”
SEE OUR RELATED ARTICLE: 101 TIPS FOR VISITING PORTUGAL
DAY 2: CASTLES IN SINTRA, FARMERS MARKET IN CASCAIS
Regaleira Castle, straight out of a fairy tale.
Located about 30 minutes from Lisbon, Sintra is a magical fairy tale kind of
place with enchanting castles and gardens. Unlike in fairy tale locations,
however, it’s packed with tourists, particularly in the summer, and has about
seven parking spots.
My #1 tip for visiting Sintra is to have a plan. You can’t just hop in a rental
car and drive up to Sintra for the day. Many visitors opt to take a bus or hire
a tour guide.
I’m a big fan of the Facebook group, Travel Portugal, where you can get tips and
suggestions on making the most of your visit to Sintra. And definitely buy your
tickets for the castles online in advance to save time in line.
Our private guide, Eddie Nobre of Seagull Tours, was scheduled to pick us up at
our hotel at 9:00. We had been in Portugal several days by then and did not set
an alarm as we are early risers. Big mistake! Chris woke up at 8:45 and asked,
“When is our guide picking us up?” Note to self: Always set an alarm when you
have an event scheduled in the morning.
Eddie Nobre of Seagull Tours took good care of us during our tour to Sintra.
Once we scrambled to get dressed, we met Eddie, who took us to Sintra and a few
places in Cascais, sharing his wealth of inside knowledge and comical
commentary.
While the multi-colored Pena Palace is the top destination for visitors to
Sintra, I had seen it before and Chris didn’t care, so due to the huge crowds of
visitors, we skipped it and instead went to two other gorgeous palaces instead.
Built in the early 1900s, the five-story home with a gothic façade at Regaleira
Palace & Gardens is interesting to stroll through, although you can only visit
the first floor. The main attraction here is the spectacular gardens, which roam
over nine acres and include towers, fountains and grottos with curving, sloped
paths to explore it all.
The Initiation Well at Regaleira Palace & Gardens. You can only enter at the
top. At least we weren’t blindfolded, as it’s rumored some men hoping to become
knights were.
The most fascinating place to visit is the Initiation Well where we walked down
the nine-level spiral ramp into the ground. It is said that Templar Knights
underwent initiation here by walking down blindfolded into a labyrinth and had
to find their way back up by walking towards the light. If they made it, they
were initiated into the brotherhood. It is also believed that the nine spirals
reference the nine circles on hell in Dante’s Divine Comedy.
Monserrate Palace
We also visited Monserrate Palace, which was built in 1863 as a summer home for
Sir Francis Cook. My favorite thing about this small palace was the beautiful
tile work throughout the home. The lush gardens are spectacular as well and
include fountains, springs, grottoes and a lake along with several rare species
of plants. The ruins of the hauntingly beautiful chapel are overrun by
vegetation and share the sun with a huge Australian rubber tree.
Another view of Monserrate Palace
Eddie suggested an alternative to lunch in Sintra and took us to the Mercado Da
Vila, the indoor farmers market building in Cascais that also houses bars and
restaurants. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, there’s a large flea market in the
parking lot.
The farmers market at Mercado Da Vila. I loved visiting farmers markets when we
travel, although it’s frustrating to not be able to buy and cook some of the
fresh looking food. Not that I’m complaining about a vacation from cooking!
Our first stop was the fish market where Chris happily downed oysters, followed
by lunch at Marisco inside Mercado Da Vila, where we dined on more seafood
dishes, including mussels, clams, and of course, more cod.
After our discussion about Black Pig gin, which is made in Alentejo, Portugal,
Eddie took us to the supermarket in Cascais where we could get a bottle. We love
gin and I particularly loved the design of the bottle that features
blue-and-white tiles. With a black pig, of course.
While these slabs of fish may not look all that appetizing to Americans, the
Portuguese can’t get enough of dried, salted cod, the national dish. Depending
on who you ask, they either have 365 or 1,000 recipes for cod.
The grocery store had a large section just for the dried salted cod the
Portuguese love, huge flat slabs that they take home and leave on the counter.
When they want to cook it, they soak it in water for at least 24 hours, changing
it several times to reduce the saltiness. That cod and the unrefrigerated eggs
piled in towers at the end of an aisle were the two most unusual things we saw
in grocery stores in Portugal. The best things we saw were the rows and rows of
wines for less than 10 euros a bottle.
After touring for days, we needed a night in, so opted to heat up our leftover
paella in our hotel room, which had a fridge and a stovetop. See more on our
hotel below.
DAY 3: CABO DA ROCA, HIKING, WINE TASTING
Obligatory cheesy photo at Cabo da Roca, the most western point of Europe.
Our guide for day 3 was Teresa Oliveira with Walk Hike Portugal. She and her
husband, Francisco Mendonça, started the company, which leads day and multi-day
hikes all over Portugal.
“We don’t really have a culture of hiking in Portugal,” she told us. That really
surprised us, given how beautiful the country is and how many hiking trails
there are. Perhaps it’s one of those things visitors do, but not locals?
Our first stop was Cabo da Roca, famous for being the most western point of
continental Europe. Here we encountered one of a few places in Portugal where
you have to pay to use the restroom. Here’s a good place to point out that many
places in Portugal don’t accept credit cards, so always have some euros with
you.
Teresa Oliveira, our guide from Walk Hike Portugal, took us to stunning
locations in Sintra-Cascais Natural Park.
We walked around the area a bit, wandering the paths over the towering cliffs
before heading out on a longer hike along narrow paths through the grass. It was
a gorgeous sunny day and the scenery is just stunning.
As we were hiking along the cliffs we stopped and Teresa pointed ahead where
there was a steep path she used to take down to a secluded beach. She said a
storm had washed a lot of it away and it was no longer safe. As we were talking
a young man in flip-flops passed by, overhearing us.
Some of the cliffs on our walk. I made sure to stand far back from the edge.
“I went down there yesterday and I’m going there now,” he said, his bleached
blond hair blowing in the strong wind. Teresa advised him it wasn’t safe. “Well,
it seems like a good day to die,” he said cheerily, then went on his way. I
thought it was a good day to keep hiking and eat more seafood.
Teresa took us to another hike, way up a hill to an abandoned monastery and
ancient small church. “Monasteries and military buildings get the best views,”
she said. After climbing the hill and taking in the surrounding view that
included Lisbon and Cascais, she led us down to a small, abandoned church that
she said most people overlook.
A church from the 12th century. In the U.S. we consider anything over 30 years
ancient.
“This church dates back to the 12th century,” she told us. “It had a black
Madonna, one of three in Europe.”
After viewing the chapel, we hiked through the woods. “We also do night hikes in
the summer,” Teresa told us. “The fireflies are amazing!” Another item added to
the bucket list.
Our next stop was Adraga Beach, one of the most famous beaches in the area,
known for its large sandy area and huge rock formations, including a giant arch
at one end of the beach. We had a large, leisurely lunch at Restaurante da
Adraga, a fourth-generation family restaurant right on the beach.
Adraga Beach
You can pick out your own fish at the front of the restaurant and you pay by the
weight of the fish. Teresa picked out a lovely sea bass for us to share.
Delicious.
Casal de Santa Maria where we tasted some delicious wines. Good thing I got the
hang of this day drinking thing.
After lunch we headed to a wine tasting at Casal de Santa Maria, founded by
Baron Bodo von Bruemmer, a retired banker who bought the estate, built in 1720,
and later started producing wine there when he was 96 years old.
Visitors can take a two-hour tour to learn more of the fascinating history and
taste several of the award-winning wines. The estate produces about 80,000
bottles of wine a year.
DAY 4: DOWNTOWN CASCAIS, MAR DO INFERNO
The blue-and-white lighthouse in Cascais. I’m wearing a dress I bought in a
thrift shop in Telluride, a great travel dress.
When we planned our itinerary with three nights in Cascais, I wondered if that
was too long. As we packed our bags on that last morning, I realized we could
have spent several more days here, lounging on the beaches, visiting museums and
spending more time strolling through the Parque Marechal Carmona.
Ines helped us make the most of our last morning, showing me more of the city as
we strolled through the narrow cobbled streets of the historic downtown area,
where giant cascades of flowers flowed over balconies.
View of Cascais from the lighthouse
We made a stop in front of one unassuming house, which she told me is where the
president of Portugal lives. Known as the “president of selfies” for his
willingness to be photographed with anyone who asks, Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa
chose to stay in his home in Cascais rather than Palácio de Belém, which is the
official residence of the President of Portugal.
I was intrigued by the square blue-and-white lighthouse and Ines told me the
lighthouses are square in Portugal to protect them during earthquakes. If you
spend any time in Portugal you will learn there was a devastating earthquake in
1755, which occurred on All Saint’s Day and killed around 70,000 people in
Portugal, Spain and Morocco.
It is estimated the earthquake was close to a 9 on the Richter scale, one of the
most powerful earthquakes in history.
A street in historic Cascais. These pavers, found everywhere in Portugal, are
why you need really sensible shoes for a trip there.
Lunch the last day was a highlight. We dined at Mar de Inferno, located right on
the water. The name means hell’s mouth named after the chasm nearby.
I opted for a delicious cod dish, which of course, came with boiled potatoes –
seemingly a requirement for a meal in this country.
Delicious cod lunch at Mar de Inferno. While there may be hundreds of recipes
for cod, there seemed to be only one for potatoes – boiled. Please note the much
easier way the Portuguese serve food, with a spoon and a fork.
I adapted amazingly well to the leisurely lunch style of the Portuguese. They
enjoy their largest meal in the middle of the day, often with a glass of wine,
and end it with a small cup of coffee, which usually costs under 1 euro.
We found so many things to love about the Portuguese culture – the more laidback
lifestyle and its emphasis on food and drink. And of course, its affordability.
During our stay the exchange rate was about 1:1, making an already affordable
country even more so.
WHERE TO STAY IN CASCAIS
The pool at Sheraton Cascais Resort
We stayed in the lovely Sheraton Cascais Resort where there is plenty to do for
guests when they aren’t exploring. Located in one of the nicest neighborhoods in
Cascais, there’s a playground, two outdoor pools, one with a bar, a gym and
bicycles available for rent. There’s a shuttle service into town and to two
beaches.
I enjoyed the Experience Cascais treatment, a fantastic 80-minute massage with
sand and white clay. I highly recommend Marta as a therapist.
Our room at Sheraton Cascais Resort.
The resort has 156 rooms with balconies. We were surprised to find a stovetop,
which came in handy for heating up our leftover paella one night when we really
needed to have a night in.
The view from our room of the beautiful gardens at Sheraton Cascais Resort.
The breakfast buffet at Glass Terrace was delicious, one of the most lavish I’ve
seen, and even included a make-your-own mimosa section. It has a beautiful
terrace area so you can dine outdoors. We had dinner there one night and I
confess after eating seafood just about every meal, I ordered the chicken and it
tasted fantastic. Well, I couldn’t go an entire meal without seafood – I ordered
the tuna and avocado appetizer and it was divine.
The resort has a Japanese restaurant, Yakuza, that also has an outdoor seating
area.
For more information on Cascais, visit www.visitcascais.com/en
– Photos and text by Jan Schroder, Editor-in-chief
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Hotels and Resorts
NEW LUXURY PROPERTIES SHOWCASE NASHVILLE’S SOPHISTICATED SIDE
March 21, 2023
Hotels and Resorts
LIVE OUT YOUR ‘GLASS ONION’ FANTASY AT THIS…
January 17, 2023
Hotels and Resorts
THE INNSIDE STORY: PIER HOUSE RESORT AN OASIS…
January 11, 2023
Hotels and Resorts
ROOFTOP, LOCATION, A FEW REASONS TO STAY AT…
December 13, 2022
Luxury Cabins
BEST LUXURY CABINS IN GEORGIA FOR A GETAWAY
July 15, 2022
Travel Books
NATIONAL PARK PLANNING, VISITING MADE EASY WITH THESE…
February 28, 2023
Travel Books
100 REASONS TO SEE THE WORLD
September 8, 2022
Travel Books
WE CAN’T STOP LAUGHING AT THESE ILLUSTRATED ONE-STAR…
July 14, 2021
Travel Books
NEED GOOD TRAVEL BOOKS? CHECK THESE OUT
November 21, 2019
Travel Products
THIS COMPACT STROLLER IS A DREAM FOR PARENTS…
March 17, 2023
Travel Products
PACKABLE HAT EARNS A PLACE IN OUR SUITCASE
February 1, 2023
Travel Products
YOU DO HAVE EYES IN BACK OF YOUR…
January 31, 2023
Travel Products
WASHABLE SHOE BAGS THE WAY TO GO
January 2, 2023
* Destinations
* Destinations
NEW MEXICO GEMS: 12 WAYS TO ENJOY SANTA…
March 23, 2023
Destinations
THE REAL LOVE AFFAIR IN ‘SLEEPLESS IN SEATTLE’…
March 9, 2023
Destinations
5 TIPS FOR BEST EXPERIENCE IN NYC, INCLUDING…
February 27, 2023
Destinations
SANDBOX VR OFFERS A LITERAL NEXT STEP TOWARDS…
February 17, 2023
Destinations
CHARMS OF DOOR COUNTY IN WINTER INCLUDE SLEIGH…
February 1, 2023
* Travel Tips
* Travel Tips
TRAVEL SAFELY, GET CONNECTED TO LOCAL FEMALE GUIDES…
April 6, 2023
Travel Tips
WANT TO KNOW IF YOU CAN GET THAT…
April 3, 2023
Travel Tips
2 WAYS TO GET DISCOUNT TIX FOR BROADWAY…
February 27, 2023
Travel Tips
USE THIS APP TO EASILY SPLIT VACATION EXPENSES
February 14, 2023
Travel Tips
BET YOU DIDN’T KNOW YOUR IPHONE HAS WHITE…
January 23, 2023
* Cruises
* Cruises
HOW MUCH WASTIN’ AWAY IN MARGARITAVILLE CAN YOU…
April 5, 2023
Cruises
HERE’S WHY CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN DURING ‘QUIET SEASON’…
January 2, 2023
Cruises
SETTING SAIL OUT OF NEW CRUISE TERMINAL THAT’S…
December 2, 2022
Cruises
THRILLS, CHILLS ON NEWEST RC CRUISE SHIP INCLUDE…
December 1, 2022
Cruises
BIG SHIP CRUISING WINS MY HEART AGAIN
March 31, 2022
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