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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 5, 2010 at 9:57 PM </div>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1288039">#1</a></div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> I did a full flush on my automatic transmission (06 V6 TRD Sport 2wd without towing package) today [45.1k miles]. I haven't seen any detailed DIY write up's on the process
so here it goes (feel free to make sticky): <br>
<br> Overall it's very easy to do and not much more complicated than the standard ~3qt drain/fill. The process if you have the tow package is essentially the same, except your ATF cooling lines will be going to a small oil cooler vs
going to the radiator. If you have a 4x4, the transmissions will look different than my pictures, but this may still help to guide you through the process. <br>
<br> Outside of having access to a flush machine, this is the next best thing – and free except fluid costs. A very small amount of original fluid does get mixed in, but it’s negligible. Without dropping the pan and attaching a special
machine to the actual ATF pump, this works just as well as a standard flush machine. There is a metal screen (not a true filter) in the pan, but from everything posted prior, it’s not necessary to drop the pan and clean it this early –
100k miles or longer is fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>*Supplies needed:</b><br> 4.0L V6 w/ Automatic Transmission<br> 1. 13+ quarts of Toyota WS ATF fluid (Amsoil ATL or RedLine D6 are also compatible and fine to use [I bought 15 and used 14 quarts of Amsoil ATL])<br> 2. 2 crush washers
from dealer (part #: <div class="relpInPost relp relPhrsInPost" data-was-processed="true">
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) (you can probably get away with reusing the originals, but they're only $2 new)<br> 3. 5mm hex socket, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 24mm socket and ratchet<br> 4. Gear lube pump <br> 5. Graduated bucket + milk jug (or the like) to
collect old fluid<br> 6. 16ga or thinner wire<br> 7. Torque wrench<br> 8. Pliers<br> 9. Nitril/latex gloves<br> 10. Plenty of paper towels<br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/16h6jhz_2b4882bd34b7dbd1c35677dff7bc78c1afe52f61-jpg.2188585/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/16h6jhz_2b4882bd34b7dbd1c35677dff7bc78c1afe52f61-jpg.2188585/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/16h6jhz_2b4882bd34b7dbd1c35677dff7bc78c1afe52f61-jpg.2188585/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="16h6jhz_2b4882bd34b7dbd1c35677dff7bc78c1afe52f61.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<b>**Service Specs:</b><br>
<br> A750E/F Automatic Transmission Dry Fill = 10.9 liter / 11.5 US qts Toyota ATF WS<br> Drain plug torque: 28 N*m (21 ft.*lbf) <br> Overflow plug torque: 20 N*m (15 ft.*lbf)<br> Refill plug torque: 39 N*m (29 ft.*lbf)<br>
<b><br>
***Service (drain) the fluid below 86 *F (i.e. cold)</b><br>
<br>
<b>Step 1:</b> Loosen the fill plug (24mm - WS is stamped in the middle of it) on passenger side of transmission near the drive shaft, you can remove it or leave it in finger tight for now. The rubber o-ring can be reused here - take
care not to damage it. <br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/1111r38_d238f39939195d306e177aff19c39f3f8d78f52e-jpg.2188586/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/1111r38_d238f39939195d306e177aff19c39f3f8d78f52e-jpg.2188586/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/1111r38_d238f39939195d306e177aff19c39f3f8d78f52e-jpg.2188586/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="1111r38_d238f39939195d306e177aff19c39f3f8d78f52e.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 2:</b> Remove the drain plug (14mm) on the bottom of the transmission pan and be prepared to catch any fluid that comes out w/ your graduated bucket. Allow all fluid to come out, if your fluid is cold you should get about 3
quarts. You can rock the truck once it stops draining and get quite a bit more out, but this isn't necessary. Once the fluid has stopped draining, replace the 14mm plug w/ the new crush washer and tighten with torque wrench to 21
ft.*lb.<br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/k0pq3t_c930d42eb2ee05d46a7de8009ec5b79db64181c1-jpg.2188587/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/k0pq3t_c930d42eb2ee05d46a7de8009ec5b79db64181c1-jpg.2188587/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/k0pq3t_c930d42eb2ee05d46a7de8009ec5b79db64181c1-jpg.2188587/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="k0pq3t_c930d42eb2ee05d46a7de8009ec5b79db64181c1.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br> At this point you've drained about 3 qts, but take note of the precise amount you get.<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2hn9vlv_03188fc3c3997a6591d51a70b7b509291e077622-jpg.2188588/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2hn9vlv_03188fc3c3997a6591d51a70b7b509291e077622-jpg.2188588/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2hn9vlv_03188fc3c3997a6591d51a70b7b509291e077622-jpg.2188588/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2hn9vlv_03188fc3c3997a6591d51a70b7b509291e077622.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 3:</b> Remove the fill plug you loosened earlier - it's time to add an equal amount of new fluid that was removed from the drain plug. Route your oil pump hose into the fill hole and secure it. Pump in the proper amount. I added
3 qts. Once finished, remove the pump hose from the fill plug, you can leave the fill plug bolt out.<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2gv28pl_9df825db3c14e4aa496f370f98d3a11af1ee8e12-jpg.2188589/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2gv28pl_9df825db3c14e4aa496f370f98d3a11af1ee8e12-jpg.2188589/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2gv28pl_9df825db3c14e4aa496f370f98d3a11af1ee8e12-jpg.2188589/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2gv28pl_9df825db3c14e4aa496f370f98d3a11af1ee8e12.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2i6l9uo_10177ce5e761ea1ef4a858b8e068a80b77f2f35e-jpg.2188590/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2i6l9uo_10177ce5e761ea1ef4a858b8e068a80b77f2f35e-jpg.2188590/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2i6l9uo_10177ce5e761ea1ef4a858b8e068a80b77f2f35e-jpg.2188590/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2i6l9uo_10177ce5e761ea1ef4a858b8e068a80b77f2f35e.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 4:</b> Remove your skid plate if you have one. There are 4 bolts (12mm socket) securing it. This makes access for the next step substantially easier and will save you time. <br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2s0eg6g_4d5c0e3f75b82b34402d9a303e4fa2655dc0e198-jpg.2188591/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2s0eg6g_4d5c0e3f75b82b34402d9a303e4fa2655dc0e198-jpg.2188591/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2s0eg6g_4d5c0e3f75b82b34402d9a303e4fa2655dc0e198-jpg.2188591/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2s0eg6g_4d5c0e3f75b82b34402d9a303e4fa2655dc0e198.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 5:</b> Locate the two ATF cooler lines on the passenger side of the transmission. You will see two lines close together running towards the front of the truck. The top line is the oil cooler outlet tube (fluid returns to the
transmission in this line) and the bottom line is the oil cooler inlet tube (oil is pumped out of the transmission to the radiator or tow pkg cooler). You want the outlet tube (red) - trace this line the front of the truck to the point
where the metal piping ends and the rubber hose is connected with a tube clamp. You’ll see 2 metal lines at the front of the truck just under the radiator and behind the frame. The top/forward most line is your return/outlet line. It
eventually ends/connects to the bottom of your radiator or to your cooler. Disconnect the passenger side rubber hose (where red arrow is). The driver's side goes to the radiator(don't disconnect). Only a few drops came out when I
disconnected it, so don't expect it to pour out and make a mess.<br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2u6087d_ac1cad3e24f1c9dd953cd6aec738e4585d98fafa-jpg.2188592/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2u6087d_ac1cad3e24f1c9dd953cd6aec738e4585d98fafa-jpg.2188592/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2u6087d_ac1cad3e24f1c9dd953cd6aec738e4585d98fafa-jpg.2188592/ 800w"
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<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/muh7vt_a2ad43472d23337c469d64f7f1e1178344c9193b-jpg.2188593/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/muh7vt_a2ad43472d23337c469d64f7f1e1178344c9193b-jpg.2188593/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/muh7vt_a2ad43472d23337c469d64f7f1e1178344c9193b-jpg.2188593/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="muh7vt_a2ad43472d23337c469d64f7f1e1178344c9193b.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2yoo02x_6bdfc4dc4f135180aef264b1e8f48a5ae9b5761a-jpg.2188594/" alt="2yoo02x_6bdfc4dc4f135180aef264b1e8f48a5ae9b5761a.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br> Loosen and slide this clamp down to free the connection between the hose and the piping. I needed to use pliers to *carefully* pull the hose off as it was stuck on there pretty good). Attach the 3/8 clear tubing to the metal pipe
at the connection you just removed. You may need stretch the tubing out some on the end to get it on the metal pipe easier. once firmly attached, you can route the clear tube into your bucket (or use a clear jug with quart marks lined
off - I opted to use this so I could see it filling easier). <br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2gwe2hd_86b26abf133e5c6cdb5874870791f2c8dd868975-jpg.2188595/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2gwe2hd_86b26abf133e5c6cdb5874870791f2c8dd868975-jpg.2188595/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2gwe2hd_86b26abf133e5c6cdb5874870791f2c8dd868975-jpg.2188595/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2gwe2hd_86b26abf133e5c6cdb5874870791f2c8dd868975.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
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<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2hxys0m_6825439dfe46bae87dbfe1a79340654bd1d04a7b-jpg.2188596/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2hxys0m_6825439dfe46bae87dbfe1a79340654bd1d04a7b-jpg.2188596/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2hxys0m_6825439dfe46bae87dbfe1a79340654bd1d04a7b-jpg.2188596/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2hxys0m_6825439dfe46bae87dbfe1a79340654bd1d04a7b.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
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<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/35iaskl_e6d7fb9c290c9123df01662363bb945d76784405-jpg.2188597/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/35iaskl_e6d7fb9c290c9123df01662363bb945d76784405-jpg.2188597/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/35iaskl_e6d7fb9c290c9123df01662363bb945d76784405-jpg.2188597/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="35iaskl_e6d7fb9c290c9123df01662363bb945d76784405.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 6:</b> With the tube routed into your bucket, you're ready to start the engine and allow the fluid to pump out into the bucket. It pumps out at about 1 qt every 7 seconds. I did this by myself, but had enough time to start the
engine, get out and watch it fill. Do NOT rev the engine, just let it idle. I turned the engine off once ~2.5 qts had pumped out. Be sure not to allow more than 2-3 quarts to come out, you don't want the internal pump to run dry. You
can also shift from Park through all the gears if you wish, though I'm not sure if it makes a difference. I did this once for the heck of it. <br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/9sdkip_8eadc39775e9064bdb51fb843b46d252feff951d-jpg.2188598/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/9sdkip_8eadc39775e9064bdb51fb843b46d252feff951d-jpg.2188598/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/9sdkip_8eadc39775e9064bdb51fb843b46d252feff951d-jpg.2188598/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="9sdkip_8eadc39775e9064bdb51fb843b46d252feff951d.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br> At this point you've flushed out over half the old fluid (~3 qts from the drain pan + another ~2.5 qts from cooler/rad lines). This will be your original fluid and should give you an idea of how dirty it is. <br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 7:</b> Time to add more new fluid - reconnect your oil pumper to the fill hole and add in approximately what you removed in the previous step. Once the new fluid has been added, remove the pump hose again from the fill hole.
Dump out the old fluid in your bucket/jug into a waste container or the empty qt. containers. It's time to repeat step 6. <br>
<br> You will do these two steps several times to your liking. I would recommend repeating these steps until you've added at least 9 qts (not including the original 3 from the pan [total 12]) - although you'll notice by the time you've
done step 6 twice, the fluid coming out is considerably cleaner and much redder. <br>
<br> You could probably get away with only adding the original 3 qts and doing the steps above with 7-8 qts (total of 10-11 new qts) to save some $$ on fluid. I ended up using 14 qts total, and the last 2 qts that came out almost looked
like new fluid...so a little bit of a waste and probably overkill w/ this much. <br>
<br> Be sure to save at least 1 quart of new fluid in case you need to add more during the check level process. <br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 8:</b> Once you've flushed ~12 quarts or the amount of your satisfaction, remove the 3/8 clear tubing from the ATF cooler line. A few drops will come out of the metal end, but not much, so don't worry about it gushing out.
Reconnect the original rubber oil cooler outlet line to the metal piping going back to the transmission and put the tube clamp back in place. Assure that the line is snug and firmly attached. Clean up any ATF that may have spilled.<br>
<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2pzgtq8_d3a96c26fb297d5710d5f2e8399061b3c44ca6a8-jpg.2188599/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2pzgtq8_d3a96c26fb297d5710d5f2e8399061b3c44ca6a8-jpg.2188599/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2pzgtq8_d3a96c26fb297d5710d5f2e8399061b3c44ca6a8-jpg.2188599/ 1024w"
sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" alt="2pzgtq8_d3a96c26fb297d5710d5f2e8399061b3c44ca6a8.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 9:</b> You might want to add about 1/3 qt extra when you're all finished so that you don't have to do the fluid check level more than once - just let the extra drain out to the right level. Replace the fill plug bolt to hand
tight - you'll torque it down later, or if you're forgetful you can do it now (29 ft.*lb).<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 10:</b> At this point you should have approximately the correct amount of fluid in the AT and everything is reconnected. It's time to perform the fluid level check to ensure that the right amount of fluid is in the transmission.
I will briefly go over this as a great write up has already been done by ForTech
(<a target="_blank" href="http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html" class="internalLink">http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html</a>
). Do NOT use an IR thermometer - the pan reading won't be anywhere close to the internal temperature.<br>
<br> Cliffs notes version, but I highly suggest reading ForTech's post:<br>
<br> Make sure you're parked on level ground,<br> Start truck, shift through all gears several times to get new fluid moved all around.<br> Using a small wire, jump pins 4 and 13 on the ODBII port. <br> Start the truck, you should see a
lot of your dash lights flashing.<br> From park, put truck in neutral for 2-3 seconds<br> Shift down to drive for ~1 second, enough for it to barely engage the gear then go back to neutral then back to drive after ~1 second. (repeat 3
times, total of 6 shifts). <br> Once back in neutral after 6th shift, you should see AT Temp in red light up for 2 seconds on the Tach face plate. <br> Shift back to park, you should see the AT temp light again for 2 seconds then go
off. If you don't see this, you've messed up and need to do it again.<br> Let the truck idle until the AT temp light stays on. It's close when it starts flickering. It may take up to 20 minutes of idling to get to temp, especially in
colder environments.<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 11:</b> With the AT Temp light on and the truck still idling, remove the check plug(5mm hex). Be mindful of the Y-pipe / exhaust as it's hot and you will burn yourself if more than lightly touched. Also have your catch bucket
ready. Hopefully you've added a little more than what's needed and fluid will come out. Allow fluid to drain until it's a light/thin trickle. Add your new crush washer to the bolt and replace the bolt torquing to spec (15 ft.*lb). Turn
the engine the off.<br>
<br>
<br>
<b>Step 12:</b> If you had a good bit of fluid come out and are now at the proper level, torque down the refill plug(24mm / 29 ft.*lb) if you did not do so in step 9. If you did not add enough fluid - ie nothing came out - replace the
check bolt, turn off the engine and then add 1/3 to 1/2 qt more new fluid into the fill plug. Go through the steps in Step 10 to the get the AT Temp sense mode back on and check the fluid again as described in step 11. <br>
<br>
<b>Step 13:</b> Replace your skid plate if you removed it from step 4. <br>
<b><br>
Step 14:</b> Double check all your connections and bolts - Clean up any spilled fluid on truck.<br>
<br> That's it.<br>
<br> A few comparative pictures:<br> Original oil(left) / Brand new(right) [color is probably no indicator of usable life]<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/atu0hu_84d87a028b46b1318ded0fcc18ea21a2bb3a1f56-jpg.2188600/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/atu0hu_84d87a028b46b1318ded0fcc18ea21a2bb3a1f56-jpg.2188600/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/atu0hu_84d87a028b46b1318ded0fcc18ea21a2bb3a1f56-jpg.2188600/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="atu0hu_84d87a028b46b1318ded0fcc18ea21a2bb3a1f56.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br>
<br> After 12 fresh quarts were flushed through (left)/ Brand new (right) [12qt sample was only slightly darker, but not much].<br>
<img src="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2lu9umx_51ae514ec6c1402d4db3a4f78f9e8a1fd91e7ae2-jpg.2188601/"
srcset="https://twstatic.net/attachments/2lu9umx_51ae514ec6c1402d4db3a4f78f9e8a1fd91e7ae2-jpg.2188601/?res=640 640w, https://twstatic.net/attachments/2lu9umx_51ae514ec6c1402d4db3a4f78f9e8a1fd91e7ae2-jpg.2188601/ 800w"
sizes="(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px" alt="2lu9umx_51ae514ec6c1402d4db3a4f78f9e8a1fd91e7ae2.jpg" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" style=""><br>
<br> I will be sending a sample I took from the drain pan when it was hot to Blackstone to see what condition the oil was in after 45k miles. Should be a week or so and I'll append the results to affirm whether or not this early of a
flush really needs to be done or not. Regardless - early/preventative maintenance is worth it to me. <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> great work man, i really appreciate the writeup! <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> nice writeup but the pics dont show up for me...all I see are ToyotaNation Ads lol <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<span class="authorEnd"><a href="members/dark-knight.8006/" class="username author" dir="auto">Dark Knight</a>,</span>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 6, 2010 at 7:30 AM </div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Thanks guys...Didn't see the pic / ad problem, should be fixed now. Feel free to ask anything or make suggestions. You can PM me as well. <div
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 6, 2010 at 7:46 AM </div>
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<dd>2005 TRD OffRoad SR5 4x4 Short Bed Debadged</dd>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Very nice write up! When is this service recommended? <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 6, 2010 at 7:48 AM </div>
<div class="metaRight"> #<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1288740" title="Permalink" class="item postNumber hashPermalink OverlayTrigger" data-href="posts/1288740/permalink">8</a>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1288740">#8</a></div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> glad to see a write up about a flush,PREVENTATIVE maintenance ,i like it.its cheaper than a transmission. <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 6, 2010 at 8:15 AM </div>
<div class="metaRight"> #<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1288817" title="Permalink" class="item postNumber hashPermalink OverlayTrigger" data-href="posts/1288817/permalink">9</a>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1288817">#9</a></div>
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<dt>Vehicle:</dt>
<dd>06 PreRunner</dd>
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<div class="attribution type">KoruptTaco said: <a href="goto/post?id=1288735#post-1288735" class="AttributionLink">↑</a>
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<div class="quote">Very nice write up! When is this service recommended?</div>
<div class="quoteExpand">Click to expand...</div>
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</aside>
</div>Well the service guide recommends 60k for severe (towing, city driving, etc) and 100k miles standard (as a lifetime fluid <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie11" alt=":rolleyes:"
title="Roll Eyes :rolleyes:">). The dealerships will say it's good for 100k miles and pretty much tell you to leave if you go in before that. I don't trust it for 100k miles, and when it's out of warranty at 60k, it's no skin off
their back if it fails. Rumor has it Toyota just reduced it to 60k miles no matter what though. <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<span class="authorEnd"><a href="members/mountain-lion.4640/" class="username author" dir="auto">mountain lion</a>,</span>
<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1288817" title="Permalink" class="datePermalink"><span class="DateTime" title="Jan 6, 2010 at 8:15 AM">Jan 6, 2010</span></a>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 22, 2010 at 2:52 PM </div>
<div class="metaRight"> #<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1346652" title="Permalink" class="item postNumber hashPermalink OverlayTrigger" data-href="posts/1346652/permalink">10</a>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1346652">#10</a></div>
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<dl class="vehicleDesc" title="Upgraded Head Unit w/Aux jack : De-Badged : Black Emblem : x-runner Rims : Seat Covers : Optima Battery : AC Inverter (aftermarket) : Full time 12v : Weather Tech Front Mats : Scanguage">Upgraded Head Unit
w/Aux jack : De-Badged : Black Emblem : x-runner Rims : Seat Covers : Optima Battery : AC Inverter (aftermarket) : Full time 12v : Weather Tech Front Mats : Scanguage</dl>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Does your truck have a Transmission Dip stick?<br>
<br> I have a 2.7L Five lug 2x4. I do have a dip stick. I was wondering how closely this will be to what i need to do to flush my ATF. I have the Type iv fluid thats needed. But cant find how many qts i should expect to use. <br>
<br> So should I follow these instructions to a T. Or is their better instructions to follow.<br>
<br> Thanks -Dmac <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<span class="authorEnd"><a href="members/dmac11.16245/" class="username author" dir="auto">dmac11</a>,</span>
<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1346652" title="Permalink" class="datePermalink"><span class="DateTime" title="Jan 22, 2010 at 2:52 PM">Jan 22, 2010</span></a>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 22, 2010 at 5:13 PM </div>
<div class="metaRight"> #<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1347161" title="Permalink" class="item postNumber hashPermalink OverlayTrigger" data-href="posts/1347161/permalink">11</a>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1347161">#11</a></div>
<a href="members/mountain-lion.4640/" class="username" dir="auto" itemprop="name">mountain lion</a> <span class="isOp">[OP]</span>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Nope, this is for the sealed trans. on the 4.0L autos (no dipstick). I'm not sure what the specs are on the 2.7s, but you could use this as a baseline guide to fully flush
your system if you want. <br>
<br> There should be similar cooler lines and the process would essentially be the same. I looked at my service cd, but didn't see any specs for the 2.7 on how much fluid the system takes, etc. Since you have a dipstick you could easily
check levels. It needs to be done at 70 to 80 °C (158 to 176 °F) for the HOT reading. You may also have to fill it through that dipstick check line.<br>
<br> If you replace what you remove w/ the correct ATF type and your dipstick shows the right level, I think the rest should be fairly easy. Good luck, sorry I can't help more w/ the 2.7. <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 23, 2010 at 4:04 PM </div>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1349817">#12</a></div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 12:44 PM </div>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352114">#13</a></div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> So how much ATF is actually in the system over all? Is it a lil over 3 or is it more? <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 12:46 PM </div>
<div class="metaRight"> #<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352118" title="Permalink" class="item postNumber hashPermalink OverlayTrigger" data-href="posts/1352118/permalink">14</a>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352118">#14</a></div>
<a href="members/mountain-lion.4640/" class="username" dir="auto" itemprop="name">mountain lion</a> <span class="isOp">[OP]</span>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> ~11.5 qts total. <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 1:01 PM </div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Excellent write-up! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie13" alt=":thumbsup:" title="Thumbsup :thumbsup:"> Very thorough. <img
src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)">
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Excellent write up. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie13" alt=":thumbsup:" title="Thumbsup :thumbsup:"><br>
<br> You should pm a mod to sticky this to the mods & tutorials area. <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 3:24 PM </div>
<div class="metaRight"> #<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352436" title="Permalink" class="item postNumber hashPermalink OverlayTrigger" data-href="posts/1352436/permalink">17</a>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352436">#17</a></div>
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Great write up. Question, who are the Moderators, where is there a list of them to PM ?<br>
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<div class="attribution type">ImpulseRed008 said: <a href="goto/post?id=1352161#post-1352161" class="AttributionLink">↑</a>
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<div class="quote">Excellent write up. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie13" alt=":thumbsup:" title="Thumbsup :thumbsup:"><br>
<br> You should pm a mod to sticky this to the mods & tutorials area.
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<span class="authorEnd"><a href="members/george3.7173/" class="username author" dir="auto">george3</a>,</span>
<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352436" title="Permalink" class="datePermalink"><span class="DateTime" title="Jan 24, 2010 at 3:24 PM">Jan 24, 2010</span></a>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 3:29 PM </div>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352447">#18</a></div>
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<div class="attribution type">george3 said: <a href="goto/post?id=1352436#post-1352436" class="AttributionLink">↑</a>
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<div class="quote">Great write up. Question, who are the Moderators, where is there a list of them to PM ?</div>
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</div>click on the arrow by site information and scroll down to admin and moderators <div class="messageTextEndMarker"> </div>
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<span class="authorEnd"><a href="members/impulsered008.9104/" class="username author" dir="auto">ImpulseRed008</a>,</span>
<a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352447" title="Permalink" class="datePermalink"><span class="DateTime" title="Jan 24, 2010 at 3:29 PM">Jan 24, 2010</span></a>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 3:39 PM </div>
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<div class="myMobilePostNum"><a href="threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/#post-1352493">#19</a></div>
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OME 885 coils, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 1.5" AAL, TC uca's, cab mount chop, 5000k HID heads and fogs, LED tails, satoshi GC w/ Hella 500's mounted behind it with 5000k HID upgrade, Extang solid tri-fold tonneau cover, Yakima roof rack, fog
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> definitely a sticky. good work man! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)">
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<span class="authorEnd"><a href="members/klipp11.24059/" class="username author" dir="auto">Klipp11</a>,</span>
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<div class="metaLeft"> Jan 24, 2010 at 3:49 PM </div>
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Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro
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<blockquote class="messageText SelectQuoteContainer ugc baseHtml"> Thanks. Always learning something new. Thanks again.<br>
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<div class="attribution type">ImpulseRed008 said: <a href="goto/post?id=1352447#post-1352447" class="AttributionLink">↑</a>
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Quick Links: Flashlight mod Low profile antennas Truck Cover for hail
protection? New headlights Westin 23-2770 E-Series Polished Stainless Steel
Side Steps Snorkel
DIY: FULL FLUSH FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by mountain lion, Jan 5,
2010.
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1. Jan 5, 2010 at 9:57 PM
#1
#1
MOUNTAIN LION [OP] MEMBER
Joined: Feb 9, 2008 Member: #4640 Messages: 24 VA Vehicle: 06 PreRunner URD
TCAI, MAF Cal, o2 Sim, DT Headers
> I did a full flush on my automatic transmission (06 V6 TRD Sport 2wd
> without towing package) today [45.1k miles]. I haven't seen any detailed
> DIY write up's on the process so here it goes (feel free to make sticky):
>
> Overall it's very easy to do and not much more complicated than the
> standard ~3qt drain/fill. The process if you have the tow package is
> essentially the same, except your ATF cooling lines will be going to a
> small oil cooler vs going to the radiator. If you have a 4x4, the
> transmissions will look different than my pictures, but this may still
> help to guide you through the process.
>
> Outside of having access to a flush machine, this is the next best thing
> – and free except fluid costs. A very small amount of original fluid does
> get mixed in, but it’s negligible. Without dropping the pan and attaching
> a special machine to the actual ATF pump, this works just as well as a
> standard flush machine. There is a metal screen (not a true filter) in
> the pan, but from everything posted prior, it’s not necessary to drop the
> pan and clean it this early – 100k miles or longer is fine.
>
>
> *Supplies needed:
> 4.0L V6 w/ Automatic Transmission
> 1. 13+ quarts of Toyota WS ATF fluid (Amsoil ATL or RedLine D6 are also
> compatible and fine to use [I bought 15 and used 14 quarts of Amsoil
> ATL])
> 2. 2 crush washers from dealer (part #:
> $10 35178-30010
> 35178-30010 ) (you can probably get away with reusing the originals, but
> they're only $2 new)
> 3. 5mm hex socket, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 24mm socket and ratchet
> 4. Gear lube pump
> 5. Graduated bucket + milk jug (or the like) to collect old fluid
> 6. 16ga or thinner wire
> 7. Torque wrench
> 8. Pliers
> 9. Nitril/latex gloves
> 10. Plenty of paper towels
>
>
>
>
>
> **Service Specs:
>
> A750E/F Automatic Transmission Dry Fill = 10.9 liter / 11.5 US qts Toyota
> ATF WS
> Drain plug torque: 28 N*m (21 ft.*lbf)
> Overflow plug torque: 20 N*m (15 ft.*lbf)
> Refill plug torque: 39 N*m (29 ft.*lbf)
>
> ***Service (drain) the fluid below 86 *F (i.e. cold)
>
> Step 1: Loosen the fill plug (24mm - WS is stamped in the middle of it)
> on passenger side of transmission near the drive shaft, you can remove it
> or leave it in finger tight for now. The rubber o-ring can be reused here
> - take care not to damage it.
>
>
>
>
> Step 2: Remove the drain plug (14mm) on the bottom of the transmission
> pan and be prepared to catch any fluid that comes out w/ your graduated
> bucket. Allow all fluid to come out, if your fluid is cold you should get
> about 3 quarts. You can rock the truck once it stops draining and get
> quite a bit more out, but this isn't necessary. Once the fluid has
> stopped draining, replace the 14mm plug w/ the new crush washer and
> tighten with torque wrench to 21 ft.*lb.
>
>
>
>
>
> At this point you've drained about 3 qts, but take note of the precise
> amount you get.
>
>
>
>
>
> Step 3: Remove the fill plug you loosened earlier - it's time to add an
> equal amount of new fluid that was removed from the drain plug. Route
> your oil pump hose into the fill hole and secure it. Pump in the proper
> amount. I added 3 qts. Once finished, remove the pump hose from the fill
> plug, you can leave the fill plug bolt out.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Step 4: Remove your skid plate if you have one. There are 4 bolts (12mm
> socket) securing it. This makes access for the next step substantially
> easier and will save you time.
>
>
>
>
> Step 5: Locate the two ATF cooler lines on the passenger side of the
> transmission. You will see two lines close together running towards the
> front of the truck. The top line is the oil cooler outlet tube (fluid
> returns to the transmission in this line) and the bottom line is the oil
> cooler inlet tube (oil is pumped out of the transmission to the radiator
> or tow pkg cooler). You want the outlet tube (red) - trace this line the
> front of the truck to the point where the metal piping ends and the
> rubber hose is connected with a tube clamp. You’ll see 2 metal lines at
> the front of the truck just under the radiator and behind the frame. The
> top/forward most line is your return/outlet line. It eventually
> ends/connects to the bottom of your radiator or to your cooler.
> Disconnect the passenger side rubber hose (where red arrow is). The
> driver's side goes to the radiator(don't disconnect). Only a few drops
> came out when I disconnected it, so don't expect it to pour out and make
> a mess.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Loosen and slide this clamp down to free the connection between the hose
> and the piping. I needed to use pliers to *carefully* pull the hose off
> as it was stuck on there pretty good). Attach the 3/8 clear tubing to the
> metal pipe at the connection you just removed. You may need stretch the
> tubing out some on the end to get it on the metal pipe easier. once
> firmly attached, you can route the clear tube into your bucket (or use a
> clear jug with quart marks lined off - I opted to use this so I could see
> it filling easier).
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Step 6: With the tube routed into your bucket, you're ready to start the
> engine and allow the fluid to pump out into the bucket. It pumps out at
> about 1 qt every 7 seconds. I did this by myself, but had enough time to
> start the engine, get out and watch it fill. Do NOT rev the engine, just
> let it idle. I turned the engine off once ~2.5 qts had pumped out. Be
> sure not to allow more than 2-3 quarts to come out, you don't want the
> internal pump to run dry. You can also shift from Park through all the
> gears if you wish, though I'm not sure if it makes a difference. I did
> this once for the heck of it.
>
>
>
>
> At this point you've flushed out over half the old fluid (~3 qts from the
> drain pan + another ~2.5 qts from cooler/rad lines). This will be your
> original fluid and should give you an idea of how dirty it is.
>
>
> Step 7: Time to add more new fluid - reconnect your oil pumper to the
> fill hole and add in approximately what you removed in the previous step.
> Once the new fluid has been added, remove the pump hose again from the
> fill hole. Dump out the old fluid in your bucket/jug into a waste
> container or the empty qt. containers. It's time to repeat step 6.
>
> You will do these two steps several times to your liking. I would
> recommend repeating these steps until you've added at least 9 qts (not
> including the original 3 from the pan [total 12]) - although you'll
> notice by the time you've done step 6 twice, the fluid coming out is
> considerably cleaner and much redder.
>
> You could probably get away with only adding the original 3 qts and doing
> the steps above with 7-8 qts (total of 10-11 new qts) to save some $$ on
> fluid. I ended up using 14 qts total, and the last 2 qts that came out
> almost looked like new fluid...so a little bit of a waste and probably
> overkill w/ this much.
>
> Be sure to save at least 1 quart of new fluid in case you need to add
> more during the check level process.
>
>
> Step 8: Once you've flushed ~12 quarts or the amount of your
> satisfaction, remove the 3/8 clear tubing from the ATF cooler line. A few
> drops will come out of the metal end, but not much, so don't worry about
> it gushing out. Reconnect the original rubber oil cooler outlet line to
> the metal piping going back to the transmission and put the tube clamp
> back in place. Assure that the line is snug and firmly attached. Clean up
> any ATF that may have spilled.
>
>
>
>
> Step 9: You might want to add about 1/3 qt extra when you're all finished
> so that you don't have to do the fluid check level more than once - just
> let the extra drain out to the right level. Replace the fill plug bolt to
> hand tight - you'll torque it down later, or if you're forgetful you can
> do it now (29 ft.*lb).
>
>
> Step 10: At this point you should have approximately the correct amount
> of fluid in the AT and everything is reconnected. It's time to perform
> the fluid level check to ensure that the right amount of fluid is in the
> transmission. I will briefly go over this as a great write up has already
> been done by ForTech
> (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/63851-how-drain-refill-automatic-transmission.html
> ). Do NOT use an IR thermometer - the pan reading won't be anywhere close
> to the internal temperature.
>
> Cliffs notes version, but I highly suggest reading ForTech's post:
>
> Make sure you're parked on level ground,
> Start truck, shift through all gears several times to get new fluid moved
> all around.
> Using a small wire, jump pins 4 and 13 on the ODBII port.
> Start the truck, you should see a lot of your dash lights flashing.
> From park, put truck in neutral for 2-3 seconds
> Shift down to drive for ~1 second, enough for it to barely engage the
> gear then go back to neutral then back to drive after ~1 second. (repeat
> 3 times, total of 6 shifts).
> Once back in neutral after 6th shift, you should see AT Temp in red light
> up for 2 seconds on the Tach face plate.
> Shift back to park, you should see the AT temp light again for 2 seconds
> then go off. If you don't see this, you've messed up and need to do it
> again.
> Let the truck idle until the AT temp light stays on. It's close when it
> starts flickering. It may take up to 20 minutes of idling to get to temp,
> especially in colder environments.
>
>
> Step 11: With the AT Temp light on and the truck still idling, remove the
> check plug(5mm hex). Be mindful of the Y-pipe / exhaust as it's hot and
> you will burn yourself if more than lightly touched. Also have your catch
> bucket ready. Hopefully you've added a little more than what's needed and
> fluid will come out. Allow fluid to drain until it's a light/thin
> trickle. Add your new crush washer to the bolt and replace the bolt
> torquing to spec (15 ft.*lb). Turn the engine the off.
>
>
> Step 12: If you had a good bit of fluid come out and are now at the
> proper level, torque down the refill plug(24mm / 29 ft.*lb) if you did
> not do so in step 9. If you did not add enough fluid - ie nothing came
> out - replace the check bolt, turn off the engine and then add 1/3 to 1/2
> qt more new fluid into the fill plug. Go through the steps in Step 10 to
> the get the AT Temp sense mode back on and check the fluid again as
> described in step 11.
>
> Step 13: Replace your skid plate if you removed it from step 4.
>
> Step 14: Double check all your connections and bolts - Clean up any
> spilled fluid on truck.
>
> That's it.
>
> A few comparative pictures:
> Original oil(left) / Brand new(right) [color is probably no indicator of
> usable life]
>
>
>
> After 12 fresh quarts were flushed through (left)/ Brand new (right)
> [12qt sample was only slightly darker, but not much].
>
>
> I will be sending a sample I took from the drain pan when it was hot to
> Blackstone to see what condition the oil was in after 45k miles. Should
> be a week or so and I'll append the results to affirm whether or not this
> early of a flush really needs to be done or not. Regardless -
> early/preventative maintenance is worth it to me.
>
mountain lion, Jan 5, 2010
#1
$PITTACO, Masmohs, DexterMagnus and 61 others like this.
2. Jan 5, 2010 at 10:12 PM
#2
#2
YOSH2000 WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Sep 18, 2007 Member: #2733 Messages: 2,936 Gender: Male CO Vehicle:
'17 Tundra CM 5.7
> great work man, i really appreciate the writeup!
>
yosh2000, Jan 5, 2010
#2
3. Jan 5, 2010 at 10:13 PM
#3
#3
BLACKHAWKE88 WO AI NI BAO BEI ^_^
Joined: Jan 11, 2009 Member: #12478 Messages: 16,639 Gender: Male SGV, CA
Vehicle: 07 TRD Offroad
> nice writeup but the pics dont show up for me...all I see are
> ToyotaNation Ads lol
>
blackhawke88, Jan 5, 2010
#3
4. Jan 6, 2010 at 5:21 AM
#4
#4
FORTECH WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Mar 31, 2008 Member: #5636 Messages: 876 Gender: Male CANADA
Vehicle: 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD OR Bilstein 5100's, rear TSB, Firestone
bags
> Props to you! Looking forward to seeing the pics!
>
> I'm meaning to do this when I get the time.
>
Fortech, Jan 6, 2010
#4
TacomaCZman likes this.
5. Jan 6, 2010 at 5:35 AM
#5
#5
DARK KNIGHT WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Jul 18, 2008 Member: #8006 Messages: 9,804 Gender: Male First Name:
Jeff NC/SC Vehicle: 4Runner Trail, 88 pickup, Tundra Platinum A few bolts
are different.
> Thanks for the know how!
>
Dark Knight, Jan 6, 2010
#5
TacomaCZman likes this.
6. Jan 6, 2010 at 7:30 AM
#6
#6
MOUNTAIN LION [OP] MEMBER
Joined: Feb 9, 2008 Member: #4640 Messages: 24 VA Vehicle: 06 PreRunner URD
TCAI, MAF Cal, o2 Sim, DT Headers
> Thanks guys...Didn't see the pic / ad problem, should be fixed now. Feel
> free to ask anything or make suggestions. You can PM me as well.
>
mountain lion, Jan 6, 2010
#6
7. Jan 6, 2010 at 7:46 AM
#7
#7
311OFFROAD STOCK TACO FOR NOW
Joined: Sep 11, 2008 Member: #9161 Messages: 1,271 Gender: Male
Milledgeville, GA Vehicle: 2005 TRD OffRoad SR5 4x4 Short Bed Debadged 20%
tint, Debadged, Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT, Infinity component door speakers,
MagLite mod
> Very nice write up! When is this service recommended?
>
311offroad, Jan 6, 2010
#7
8. Jan 6, 2010 at 7:48 AM
#8
#8
HONDAGM CALLSIGN MONKE
Joined: Oct 28, 2009 Member: #25056 Messages: 10,594 First Name: James
South-Pole, Alabama Vehicle: 2023 access cab V6
> glad to see a write up about a flush,PREVENTATIVE maintenance ,i like
> it.its cheaper than a transmission.
>
HondaGM, Jan 6, 2010
#8
Inkedgenius85 likes this.
9. Jan 6, 2010 at 8:15 AM
#9
#9
MOUNTAIN LION [OP] MEMBER
Joined: Feb 9, 2008 Member: #4640 Messages: 24 VA Vehicle: 06 PreRunner URD
TCAI, MAF Cal, o2 Sim, DT Headers
> KoruptTaco said: ↑
> > Very nice write up! When is this service recommended?
> > Click to expand...
>
> Well the service guide recommends 60k for severe (towing, city driving,
> etc) and 100k miles standard (as a lifetime fluid ). The dealerships will
> say it's good for 100k miles and pretty much tell you to leave if you go
> in before that. I don't trust it for 100k miles, and when it's out of
> warranty at 60k, it's no skin off their back if it fails. Rumor has it
> Toyota just reduced it to 60k miles no matter what though.
>
mountain lion, Jan 6, 2010
#9
10. Jan 22, 2010 at 2:52 PM
#10
#10
DMAC11 WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Apr 21, 2009 Member: #16245 Messages: 123 Gender: Male CT Vehicle:
'06 2x4 AC Upgraded Head Unit w/Aux jack : De-Badged : Black Emblem :
x-runner Rims : Seat Covers : Optima Battery : AC Inverter (aftermarket) :
Full time 12v : Weather Tech Front Mats : Scanguage
> Does your truck have a Transmission Dip stick?
>
> I have a 2.7L Five lug 2x4. I do have a dip stick. I was wondering how
> closely this will be to what i need to do to flush my ATF. I have the
> Type iv fluid thats needed. But cant find how many qts i should expect to
> use.
>
> So should I follow these instructions to a T. Or is their better
> instructions to follow.
>
> Thanks -Dmac
>
dmac11, Jan 22, 2010
#10
11. Jan 22, 2010 at 5:13 PM
#11
#11
MOUNTAIN LION [OP] MEMBER
Joined: Feb 9, 2008 Member: #4640 Messages: 24 VA Vehicle: 06 PreRunner URD
TCAI, MAF Cal, o2 Sim, DT Headers
> Nope, this is for the sealed trans. on the 4.0L autos (no dipstick). I'm
> not sure what the specs are on the 2.7s, but you could use this as a
> baseline guide to fully flush your system if you want.
>
> There should be similar cooler lines and the process would essentially be
> the same. I looked at my service cd, but didn't see any specs for the 2.7
> on how much fluid the system takes, etc. Since you have a dipstick you
> could easily check levels. It needs to be done at 70 to 80 °C (158 to 176
> °F) for the HOT reading. You may also have to fill it through that
> dipstick check line.
>
> If you replace what you remove w/ the correct ATF type and your dipstick
> shows the right level, I think the rest should be fairly easy. Good luck,
> sorry I can't help more w/ the 2.7.
>
mountain lion, Jan 22, 2010
#11
12. Jan 23, 2010 at 4:04 PM
#12
#12
05TACOSPORT WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Jan 16, 2010 Member: #29449 Messages: 2,144 Gender: Male First
Name: Chris Tennessee Vehicle: TRD SPORT Geared and Locked
> Good Work
>
05tacoSPORT, Jan 23, 2010
#12
13. Jan 24, 2010 at 12:44 PM
#13
#13
YAKKO ACTIVE MEMBER
Joined: Sep 21, 2009 Member: #23072 Messages: 36 Gender: Male First Name:
Tim Oklahoma City, OK Vehicle: 08' Pre-Runner SR5
> So how much ATF is actually in the system over all? Is it a lil over 3 or
> is it more?
>
YaKkO, Jan 24, 2010
#13
14. Jan 24, 2010 at 12:46 PM
#14
#14
MOUNTAIN LION [OP] MEMBER
Joined: Feb 9, 2008 Member: #4640 Messages: 24 VA Vehicle: 06 PreRunner URD
TCAI, MAF Cal, o2 Sim, DT Headers
> ~11.5 qts total.
>
mountain lion, Jan 24, 2010
#14
Slashaar and 14Tacos like this.
15. Jan 24, 2010 at 1:01 PM
#15
#15
CARMELLOCAFE BEGIN WITH THE END IN MIND.
Joined: May 15, 2009 Member: #17267 Messages: 2,266 Gender: Male First
Name: KEVIN N. California Vehicle: 2014 TRD OR Access cab longbed
> Excellent write-up! Very thorough.
>
carmellocafe, Jan 24, 2010
#15
TacomaCZman likes this.
16. Jan 24, 2010 at 1:09 PM
#16
#16
IMPULSERED008 GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
Joined: Sep 9, 2008 Member: #9104 Messages: 46,565 Gender: Female First
Name: Susan SC Vehicle: 08 PreRunner SR5 V6 w/tow pkg OEM SS tube steps,
Access LE tonneau cover, pop n'lock, AVS in-channel vent visors, stubby
antenna, Wet Okole seat covers, bed mat, rear diff breather mod, 4 extra d
rings in bed, K&N air filter.
> Excellent write up.
>
> You should pm a mod to sticky this to the mods & tutorials area.
>
ImpulseRed008, Jan 24, 2010
#16
TacomaCZman and 14Tacos like this.
17. Jan 24, 2010 at 3:24 PM
#17
#17
GEORGE3 WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Jun 8, 2008 Member: #7173 Messages: 4,493 New Jersey Vehicle: 2008
2.7 Manual Trans Tacoma Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner
gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed
Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil
pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED
Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter,
PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood
Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
> Great write up. Question, who are the Moderators, where is there a list
> of them to PM ?
>
>
> ImpulseRed008 said: ↑
> > Excellent write up.
> >
> > You should pm a mod to sticky this to the mods & tutorials area.
> > Click to expand...
>
>
george3, Jan 24, 2010
#17
tacotongue likes this.
18. Jan 24, 2010 at 3:29 PM
#18
#18
IMPULSERED008 GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
Joined: Sep 9, 2008 Member: #9104 Messages: 46,565 Gender: Female First
Name: Susan SC Vehicle: 08 PreRunner SR5 V6 w/tow pkg OEM SS tube steps,
Access LE tonneau cover, pop n'lock, AVS in-channel vent visors, stubby
antenna, Wet Okole seat covers, bed mat, rear diff breather mod, 4 extra d
rings in bed, K&N air filter.
> george3 said: ↑
> > Great write up. Question, who are the Moderators, where is there a list
> > of them to PM ?
> > Click to expand...
>
> click on the arrow by site information and scroll down to admin and
> moderators
>
ImpulseRed008, Jan 24, 2010
#18
19. Jan 24, 2010 at 3:39 PM
#19
#19
KLIPP11 S3
Joined: Oct 10, 2009 Member: #24059 Messages: 530 Gender: Male First Name:
Kevin Vehicle: '06 DC 4x4 LB OME 885 coils, Bilstein 5100 shocks, 1.5" AAL,
TC uca's, cab mount chop, 5000k HID heads and fogs, LED tails, satoshi GC
w/ Hella 500's mounted behind it with 5000k HID upgrade, Extang solid
tri-fold tonneau cover, Yakima roof rack, fog light anytime mod, disable
a/c defrost mod
> definitely a sticky. good work man!
>
Klipp11, Jan 24, 2010
#19
20. Jan 24, 2010 at 3:49 PM
#20
#20
GEORGE3 WELL-KNOWN MEMBER
Joined: Jun 8, 2008 Member: #7173 Messages: 4,493 New Jersey Vehicle: 2008
2.7 Manual Trans Tacoma Seat belt beeper, Cabelas (Weathertech) floor liner
gray, Covercraft Seat Savers in Taupe, Protecta Heavy Duty Rubber Truck Bed
Mat, Pop n Lock PL5200, Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit, Wolverine oil
pan heater, Scangauge2, afe pro dry s filter, Remote Underbody 4 Piece LED
Light Kit (White) used as Bed light, DIY Washable Cabin Air Filter,
PA15-TOY, 4x4 Illuminated Switch, full synthetic, Redline Tuning Hood
Support, Smittybilt Nerf Steps black powder-coated
> Thanks. Always learning something new. Thanks again.
>
>
> ImpulseRed008 said: ↑
> > click on the arrow by site information and scroll down to admin and
> > moderators
> > Click to expand...
>
>
george3, Jan 24, 2010
#20
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PRODUCTS DISCUSSED IN
ENTIRE SITE FORUM: 2ND GEN. TACOMAS (2005-2015) THREAD: DIY: FULL FLUSH FOR
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Lubegard 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.
$16.85
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$172.71
Toyota 00289-ATFWS Automatic Transmission Fluid, 192 Ounces, 6 Pack
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Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix
$10.05
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$13.66
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$18.37
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$21.70
CUSTOM ACCESSORIES Pennzoil 36670 Pennzoil Fluid Transfer Pump - Quart
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35178-30010
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Performance Tool W1156 Grip Clip Transfer Pump/ Siphon Fluid Transfer Pump Kit
for Water, Oil, Liquid, and Air, Black/Clear, 48" Hoses
$12.28
Mityvac MV7300 Pneumatic Air Operated Fluid Evacuator with Accessories for
Draining Engine Oil or Transmission Fluid Directly Through The Dipstick Tubes
$108.68
Beck/Arnley 044-0345 Auto Trans Filter Kit
$38.31
Hayden 679 Universal 11” Rapid-Cool Add-On Transmission Cooler to Enhance
Cooling (not for direct replacement of the factory unit)
$51.60
Dorman 095-149 Aluminum Drain Plug Gasket, Fits M18 Compatible with Select
Models, 10 Pack
$11.78
Valvoline Multi-Vehicle (ATF) Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 GA,
Case of 3
$84.95
Lubegard 19001 Kooler Kleen Transmission Cooler Flush, 13.25 oz.
$10.73
Milescraft 1313 DrillPump300 - Self Priming Water Transfer Pump
$7.49
Pro Tie 33260 SAE Size 4 Range 1/4"-5/8" Mini Key All Stainless Hose Clamp,
4-Pack
$5.77
Tefen - 12255608053 Nylon 66 Hose Fitting, Coupling, Gray, 1/2" x 5/16" Hose ID
(Pack of 10)
$14.66
TOYOTA Genuine Lexus ATF Type T-IV Automatic Transmission Fluid OEM 12 Quart
Type-4 ATF
$93.15
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